GOOD SENSE OUTWEIGHTS THE DATA IN FOOD STUDIES

"Who do you trust?" The question is not confined to the presidential campaign; view it also in the context of recent news in nutrition and your stomach will really start aching. New to the menu of hazardous dining is margarine, which had previously been viewed as a healthier alternative to butter. Milk has also taken a beating by researchers in recent days. It's getting to where sitting down to a meal requires statistical support and a good bit of courage these days. Our advice is different: use some common sense.

Fear of eating might well be a natural descendant of keeping up with the news. The studies released are nothing short of baffling. Caffeine in coffee was judged bad, then not so bad. Oat bran was judged good, then not as good. An apple a day keeps the doctor away, goes the old saying; apples are tainted with Alar, goes the panicked celebrity. What do you believe? Last week, a Department of Agriculture study indicated that oils found in margarine may cause heart disease: trans fatty acids are the culprits. Two weeks ago, cow's milk was identified in a study by a group called Physicians Committee for Responsible Medicine as being unsuitable for babies.

Researchers are not to be blamed. Science reveals itself in increments, slowly making its secrets known. If scientific studies reflect alternately good and bad reports on various foods, it is hardly surprising. Nor should the news media be blamed, though some may overplay the significance of isolated findings. Indeed, news organizations would be remiss in not citing authoritative sources whose research turns up something previously unknown.

Since nourishment is an integral part of our existence (certainly more so than the presidency, and considerable attention is given to that), we do not readily discard the nagging results of each new study. The changing environment and new methods of food processing make research necessary and desir~able. However, choosing your diet according to the vagaries of each new study could result in a rather nervous stomach for you. The rules to follow are probably not best dispensed by a scientist but by sound personal judgment: eat balanced meals, don't overindulge, watch the snacking. Beware of raw seafood or undercooked fowl. If a certain food doesn't agree with you, don't eat it.

Read all the studies you want and form your own opinions. If you're concerned, look for further research. The often confusing analysis of nutrition should be taken with a grain of salt. (But just a grain: Remember, hypertension.)