WINE AND SONG BENEATH THE TREES AT COMMERCE

COMMERCE, Mo. -- In the shady glade next to the River Ridge Winery, folk singer Jennifer Noble sang Nanci Griffith's tune "Dance a Little Closer with Me" while couples and families at tables sipped vintages and chatted. Some ate BLTs and chocolate-covered strawberries from the winery cafe. Lucky, the winery dog, shuttled among the tables seeking affection, especially from anyone who'd missed the sign asking patrons to help teach Lucky manners by not feeding him. Muscat, the winery cat, observed the peaceful scene from a perch high in a catalpa tree by the winery door.

Nine of the twelve tables were occupied. A hammock stretched between two trees was not, but the afternoon was young.

Owners Joni and Jerry Smith greeted customers like old friends. Many of the regular visitors to the winery consider them just that.

Cape Girardeans Linda and Tim Ruddy brought their house guests -- grown daughters Jessica and Liz and grandchildren Payton, 2, and 7-month-old twins Eric and Katherine -- to the winery.

The Smiths have known Jessica, who lives in Davenport, Iowa, since before she became a mother.

"When I come down here I have to get a stash to take home," she said.

Going to wineries is a regular form of recreation for the Ruddys, whether on trips or at home.

"When we have company from out of town we always bring them by," Linda said.

Beth Hinkebein, a nurse from Cape Girardeau, and Marble Hill, Mo., firefighter Scott Altenthal shared a bottle of Vidal she pronounced "quite delicious." Both were at the winery for the first time.

They usually spend summer Sunday afternoons hiking or doing nothing in particular. "This sounded like something interesting to come and see," she said.

Noble is a St. Louis singer-songwriter with local ties and a lovely voice. She is a connoisseur of folk-rock songs. Besides Griffith, her repertoire includes music by Joni Mitchell, Neil Young and along with some originals. A recent transplant from Kennebunkport, Maine, she often performs at Brandt's Cafe in University City, Mo.

River Ridge Winery opened in 1993, offering 2,500 bottles for sale in its first year. This year's bottling rose to 16,000.

Entertainment has been offered at the winery only occasionally in the past. "It adds a little fun," Joni Smith says.

More entertainment is planned. Francois & Co. will perform jazz on the Fourth of July. Blues singer/guitarist Bruce Zimmerman plays Saturday, and Noble returns for another performance on Sunday. All times are 2-6 p.m.