Say Cheese: The story behind the famous sandwiches at the East Perry Fair

By Marybeth Niederkorn

Southeast Missourian

In the rolling hills of eastern Perry County, fairgrounds come alive for one weekend every September.

Hundreds of people descend on Altenburg, Missouri, from miles and miles around, eager to see the mule jump and tractor pulls, but they also come for the food.

And look specifically for the much-anticipated grilled-cheese sandwiches.

A fridge full of cheese and butter is stocked and ready to go for the East Perry Community Fair at the Cheese House on Thursday at the Altenburg Fairgrounds.Andrew J. Whitaker

Fair organizers know this. They count on it. And those in charge of the toasted cheese start their plans months in advance.

The sandwiches don’t just happen. They have a long history.

This year, the sandwich makers ordered just under 800 pounds of a seven-blend pizza cheese, sliced Wednesday and delivered to the fairgrounds Thursday, where it waits, chilling with the butter, until festivities begin today, according to Keith LeGrand of West End Tavern and Grocery at 6153 Route A in Frohna, Missouri.

Immanuel Lutheran Church in Altenburg sponsors the stand every year, said Ruth Miesner, co-chair of the stand’s operations, and has for many years.

“Immanuel Lutheran Church is where I was baptized, confirmed, married. It’s been my lifelong church,” Miesner said.

Miesner said it’s the same for her co-chair, Chris Schlichting.

“We’ve been working in the stand ever since we can remember,” Miesner added.

Miesner said she would sell sandwiches out front when she was younger, at the old stand, which had only one grill.

“It couldn’t keep up,” Miesner said, describing the line as “going on forever.”

But the new stand is much nicer, she added.

“It’s a great thing,” Miesner said.

It’s not just about cheese and bread and butter, she said. Melted cheese sandwiches are a fair staple, equal parts nostalgia and deliciousness, but they take a lot of work.

Volunteers will fill five shifts today and six Saturday, 10 people working each two- to three-hour shift, Miesner said.

The stand’s two grills will be fired up, Miesner said, and two people will butter the bread while another person flips the sandwiches. Another wraps, and a runner takes the sandwiches up front to sell.

“They have different groups, as far as selling,” Miesner said.

There’s a lot of tradition tied up in the stand, she added.

“Kind of the same people work these shifts, husbands and wives, some of them have their kids working, some have grandchildren helping,” Miesner said.

Miesner said she and Schlichting get together about two months before the fair to set the schedule, and when the fair date approaches, the two of them hand out the schedules at church so volunteers know when they’re working.

The fair board brings in the ingredients, Miesner said, and volunteers scrub down the stand so it’s ready for today’s crowds.

Other attractions

This year marks the 80th anniversary of the fair’s founding, according to a news release.

Free parking, free admission, and a variety of free entertainment and spectator events are back this year.

The annual fair parade begins at 1:30 p.m. today on Maple Street. Matt Puchbauer will be the grand marshall.

Opening ceremonies will follow today’s parade.

The 4x4 truck pull returns at 7 p.m. today, and the mule-jumping competition will be at 4:30 p.m. Saturday.

Agriculture shows and sales will be ongoing throughout the weekend, according to the release.

Fair publicity co-chairman Fred Eggers said he’s really looking forward to this year’s fair.

“One thing I actually get time to watch is the 4x4 truck pull on Friday evening,” Eggers said. “I like that, I like motor sports, draws a big crowd and noise sells, they always say.”

Eggers said this year’s lineup will be a great time for visitors.

“It’ll be fun,” Eggers said.

mniederkorn@semissourian.com

(573) 388-3630

Pertinent address:

200 Church St., Altenburg, Mo.

---

East Perry County Community Fair schedule

Friday, Sept. 22

8 a.m.: Judging of Poultry and Small Animals

10 a.m.: Judging of Hall Exhibits

1:30 p.m.: Parade

2:30 p.m.: Opening Ceremonies

4 p.m.: 4-H and FFA Barrow Weigh-In

5 p.m.: 4-H and FFA Steer Weigh-In

6:30 p.m.: Music by The Backstreet Cruisers

7 p.m.: 4x4 Truck Pull

Saturday, Sept. 23

8 a.m.: 4-H and FFA Steer Show

8:30 a.m.: Judging of Sheep and Goats

9 a.m.: River Hills Run

10 a.m.: Judging of Draft Horses and Mules

10 a.m.: Judging of Beef Cattle

10 a.m.: Pedal Tractor Pull

10:30 a.m.: Dairy Cattle Show

11 a.m.: Judging Of 4-H and FFA Barrows

12:30 p.m.: Music by Fertile Soil

4:30 p.m.: Jumping Mules Competition

5 p.m.: 4-H and FFA Sale

5:30 p.m.: Music by John and Jessie

7 p.m.: Lawn and Garden Tractor Pull

7:30 p.m.: Attendance Prizes

8:30 p.m.: Music by John and Jessie