PANTYHOSE: MERE IRRITATION OR SHEER NECESSITY?

Every woman who has ever owned a garment destined for a special occasion knows the score.

It takes a great pair of hose to complete the look.

"It's an accessory that adds the final details to an outfit," observed Janice Hill, vice president and buyer at Hartford's in Cape Girardeau.

With more hosiery options available than ever before, there are many ways to complement any new fashion, or update any look. Opinions about what works best may differ among consumers just as they do among top fashion designers.

"For the last two or three years, colored hosiery of some kind other than skin color has been more popular," said Dr. Paula King, chairperson of the Department of Human Environmental Studies at Southeast Missouri State University. King teaches fashion merchandising.

However, this season, there is more emphasis on flesh tone hosiery than in recent years, she noted. "We're seeing it in fashion publications worn with everything from work clothing to formal wear. It's just another option."

While there are no hard and fast rules regarding hosiery choices, there are some rules of thumb.

"A little dressier outfit, I think, calls for a sheerer hose," Hill said. "The opaque is usually worn with winter shorts. They can be worn with winter skirts, such as wool skirts," she noted. "Many people like to wear them under pant suits for a little extra warmth."

Pantyhose categories range from ultra sheer to opaque, which is a non-see-through hose, Hill explained.

The more sheer a product, the more fragile it is. "Denier" refers to the degree of sheerness of the hosiery. The smaller the denier number, the sheerer the hose. Pantyhose made from spandex will have a snug fit while products made with nylon will be the most sheer."

Opaques are available in many colors _ burgundy, navy, hunter green _ and sheer hose, too, come in a variety of tones and shades.

The resurgence in the use of nude and sheer hosiery is associated with skirt lengths, which may be dropping a bit, King noted. "In the past, when skirts were really short, we generally had tights or hosiery that was colored in some fashion," she explained. "If you match the color of your skirt to your hose to your shoes, it's a long unbroken line, it emphasizes the length of the body."

The continuation of color contributes to the perception of long and lean, King said. "Almost everything in women's and men's clothing is designed to make us look taller and slimmer."

Both King and Hill noted that there always exceptions. For instance, Hill said, "In the spring, you will see sheer denier white with black patent."

Women often simply have to try on the garment along with the hose to see if the desired effect is achieved, she said.

While pantyhose have become part of everyday dressing for many women, other types of hose such as traditional stockings, thigh highs and knee highs have also found their niche, Hill noted.

From silks to nylons to microfibers, fine hosiery has in one form or another been part of dressing well for centuries. However, it was the discovery of nylon in 1937, that brought real boost to the market. Initial shipments of nylon stockings, introduced commercially in 1940, sold out immediately.

By the 1950s, stretchable, texturized nylon was developed, eliminating the need to produce hosiery in exact sizes like shoes. In 1959, pantyhose were introduced. By 1970, pantyhose sales surpassed sales of stockings and through the next two decades, improvements in the product continued.

During this decade, sheer and opaque super-soft hosiery made with microfibers has been introduced to the marketplace.

Well dressed legs

A consumer guide called "The Sheer Facts about Pantyhose," available through the National Association of Hosiery Manufacturers, offers these tips.

-- Hemlines around the knee get a lift from sheer pantyhose and heels.

-- Body shapers and control-top pantyhose give a long, sleek line in trousers.

-- For a slimmer, longer look, try opaque pantyhose that match the color of your skirt and shoes.

-- Experiment with tinted sheers to pick up an accent color in an outfit or add contrast to a neutral dress or suit.

-- Update a little black dress with textured pantyhose or add a shimmery pair to give an old suit added interest.

THERE ARE MANY OPTIONS TODAY

To keep pantyhose looking great, the National Association of Hosiery Manufacturers suggests treating the hosiery like a fine silk scarf _ hand wash and hang dry. Here's a look at pantyhose options the association lists in its current consumer guide.

Ultra Sheer: Ultra sheers are knit with fine nylon, which best allows natural skin tone to shine through. They are extremely sheer and require extra careful handling. Often described on the package as evening sheers of having a hint of color.

Daysheer: Daysheers are made of stretchy nylon that clings gently to the legs. Not as sheer as ultra sheers. Everyday, stretch, basic, regular and classic sheers, are all familiar daysheer descriptions.

Silken Sheer: Soft, silky hosiery made with nylon and spandex.

Light Support and Support: A combination of slightly heavier nylon and spandex yards.

Opaques and Microfibers: While sheer hosiery works best with the new glamour looks, heavier opaques continue to be important casual leg options. Microfibers add extra softness and comfort. Light opaques provide a semi-sheer look that works well for both dress and casual.

Body Shapers: Many of the new shapers have lingerie-inspired features.

Thigh Highs: A comfortable, feminine option for everyday wear.