New owners reopen drive-in restaurant

JEFFERSON CITY, Mo. -- For 60 years, Zesto Drive In has been selling hot dogs, milkshakes and nostalgia in the center of Jefferson City.

"You've got three generations of people who've been coming here," said former owner Harold "Brownie" Brown.

The longtime Jefferson City institution has been under new ownership since January, when Kevin and Mellisa Berger of St. Louis purchased the restaurant, located along U.S. 50/63 at Broadway Street. Mellisa has roots in Jefferson City and even worked at Zesto as a 19-year-old.

Together, the Bergers have 20 years of experience in law enforcement. Mellisa started with the St. Louis Metropolitan Police and later worked for St. Louis County Police Department. Kevin was a crime-scene detective for St. Louis County.

During their years of service, the constant exposure to violent offenders wore on the young couple.

"When I found out he was selling ... we were looking for another life," Mellisa said. "We wanted something with stability."

They found Zesto.

"We want it to be a warm and inviting place ... where people can kick back and relax," she said.

The place has been a home away from home for Mellisa's family over the years. Two of her brothers -- Ronnie and Mark -- worked at Zesto for 10 and 17 years, respectively.

Ronnie said Wednesday he feels he has a fresh stake in the new enterprise.

"I enjoy cooking," he said. "You see the same faces every day, and that makes you want to work harder."

Closed for several weeks so the family could remodel the 30-year-old structure, the drive-in reopened March 10.

The new owners took it back to its concrete bones -- painting and paneling it, reorganizing the kitchen, replacing the electrical system and insulating the walls. An exterior wall was added to make the building more energy efficient and a partition was removed "so we could be closer to our customers," said Mellisa.

They've added a few menu items, including a marinated chicken sandwich and grilled cheese/tomato soup combo.

"Both my brothers told us: Keep things the same," Mellisa said.

They are the third owners of the business. Lottie Traubtz established Zesto in June 1948, Brown said.

The original location was beneath what then was called St. Mary's Hospital (currently St. Mary's Health Center), at the corner of Missouri Boulevard and U.S. 50.

Anchored on top of the current building, the porcelain sign, with the little man, was original to the first location. Traubtz operated the place until 1973.

At that time, Brown had worked his way up to assistant superintendent of the state Department of Liquor Control, when a change in administration meant he had to give up his job.

"It was the best thing to happen to me," he said.

Brown eventually came to own the Zesto Drive In. He built his business on customer appreciation and high-quality ingredients.

"Basically what I tried to do is maintain my base of repeat customers," he said. "For the most part, you know almost exactly what they are going to order."

Brown has a fondness for the restaurant, but is not a sentimentalist.

"I'm done with it," he said, adding he was refraining from advising the new couple. "Otherwise, I would still be in the business."