NAILS AT YOUR FINGERTIPS

Alexis Reese had her nails shaped by Leah Callis at D-J's Beauty Mart in Cape Girardeau. Callis has been doing nails for four years.

The acrylic nails are fitted the first time you have your nails done and then have to be filled in every three or four weeks.

The final step is the polish you select. Bright colors are the new style for spring.

About three years ago when Lupe Abernathy, then a newcomer from the West Coast, told people she did nails for a living, her story was often met with surprise.

She is amazed how quickly that perception has changed.

"I've built a full clientele in a very short time," said Abernathy, a nail technician at Marilyn's on North Main Street, adding that artificial nails are the latest craze and a craze that is here to stay.

"It's just the in-thing," agreed Leah Callis, a nail technician and cosmetologist at D-J's Beauty Mart on Kingshighway. "It used to be such that it was a more affluent thing to do, but it's gotten more affordable."

The appeal has broadened locally to include a younger crowd, as well as women from all walks and stages of life. Many hair salons feature nail technician services and at least two shops devoted solely to nail care -- artificial and natural -- have opened in Cape Girardeau since November.

But not everyone is a newcomer to artificial nails. Ruby Routon of Scott City has enjoyed wearing them for years. "I've worn them so long, I can't go without them," she said, chuckling, during a recent visit to L.A. Nails in the West Park Mall.

As manicurist Tranh Nguyen worked intently on Routon's outstretched hand, Routon said the appeal of artificial nails has broadened within her own family, adding: "My granddaughter wears them, one of my daughters wears them." Routon, who wears her acrylic nails long and, most often, colorful, is careful to return for "fills" regularly.

Those routine visits are imperative in helping ensure the quality of the nail, Nguyen stressed, saying: "You have to do the fill if you want to keep them on. If they're not sealed tight and you get moisture underneath, your nail will turn dark."

A fill as it relates to one of the most popular types of artificial nail -- the acrylic nail -- means simply a "filling in" with acrylic in the cuticle area, which is the part of the nail that has grown since the last visit.

Fills are usually needed every two to three weeks, depending on how quickly the nail grows.

While a Fashion Nail manicurist repaired one of her acrylic nails, Shirley Ryan of Marble Hill explained that she can often wait up to a month between visits. Ryan, who opts for a very natural looking nail with clear polish, enjoys the way artificial nails can be kept at a uniform length.

Ryan's preference of the natural nail look is shared by many, according to Nguyen Anh, manager of Fashion Nails on Plaza Way, and several others involved in the artificial nail business.

"A lot of the style now is a more blunt nail," noted Callis. "It's kind of a squared-off kind of look." Also, the French manicure remains a favored style. That look calls for the tips of the nail to be painted white followed by a light, sheer coat over the entire nail.

On the other hand, some people favor a more dramatic look in both nail shape and color. "The color of their polish changes with their mood and the seasons," Callis said.

New spring polish colors, Callis said, are "a throw back to the 60s," with lots of pastels, pearls, pinks and lilacs. But again, diversity is apparent. "There are hot colors, too," she noted, adding: "For the very far out, there's a real mint color and a banana color."

Nails can even become mini works of art. Nail art, noted Abernathy, is most popular around holidays. "Sometimes you have people that want something a little festive," she said, noting that she hand paints designs onto nails using acrylic paints.

While there are many nail styles from which to choose, including simply a well-manicured set of natural nails, types of artificial nails are just as varied.

While an acrylic nail might work best for some, a gel nail, a sculpted nail or even a fiberglass nail might best suit another's needs. Educating the patron on the options is a big part of the manicurist's job.

Visits for artificial nail fills and sets -- the process of applying the artificial nails for the first time -- can typically take about an hour. For acrylic nails, an acrylic tip is adhered about midway on the natural nail. The surface is smoothed and the tip shaped. Then, a thin coat of acrylic is applied over the entire nail, and the nail is buffed and polished.

Regardless of which nail type and related application process that is selected, said Callis, "basically the end result is the same -- an artificial nail that's stronger than the natural nail." Plus, artificial nails typically hold polish longer than natural nails.

Maintaining her artificial nails is a way of treating herself, explained Ryan, saying: "I do it for me, because it makes my hands look nice."

While artificial nails are becoming more mainstream, many who choose them regard them as a luxury, explained Abernathy. "It's something she can do just for herself," she said of customers. "Your nails are well-manicured, and guess what, you feel like a million bucks."