KC's queen of soul food now reigns at suburban club

LEE'S SUMMIT, Mo. -- Merritt Gano and Russ DiMaggio knew a good thing when they tasted it, and the cooking at Ruby's Soul Food in downtown Kansas City was better than good. So when Ruby McIntyre closed the lunch spot, they invited her to cook once a week at their suburban banquet hall.

Now, at age 90, the lady known to fans as "Miss Ruby" is thriving in the second career she began in May 2001 at the 321 Event Club in downtown Lee's Summit.

Each Friday evening, customers eagerly line up a half-hour early to await the cowbell that signals the opening of the buffet McIntyre has spent the day preparing.

"They come running like a bunch of little chickens in the country," McIntyre said.

Some of them have indeed come from the country -- and from as far away as Harrisonville and St. Joseph -- for the chicken she has spent the day frying, along with the catfish, greens, macaroni and cheese, pies and other staples of Southern and soul cuisine.

Newcomers and longtime fans alike are delighted to see the famed cook herself presiding over the buffet. One longtime regular at the Kansas City cafe came in with some skepticism, thinking McIntyre was too old to still be in business.

"He said, 'You're the real Ruby,'" McIntyre said.

Ray and Donna Knight of Lee's Summit had never been to her eatery.

"We were here the night she opened," Donna Knight said recently at the club. "Been here every night since. She has a yummy dessert bar and fries the best catfish."

McIntyre goes table to table, greeting regulars and old friends, refilling coffees, hugging and laughing.

Gano said he was glad the club was introducing new people to McIntyre.

"I've seen four generations come in for dinner," Gano said. "Here's the little one meeting Miss Ruby for the first time, and then Ruby hugs the great-grandfather."

Cooked for Truman

McIntyre operated her Kansas City cafe for nearly 50 years, arriving at about 3:30 a.m. to begin cooking lunch on a four-burner home-model stove. Her customers ranged from downtown workers to dignitaries, including the late President Harry S. Truman.

DiMaggio did the heating and cooling work at the cafe and Gano was a longtime customer who worked in downtown Kansas City. When they saw the opportunity, they asked her to come to Lee's Summit to help build business at their rental hall.

Gano said he admired McIntyre's work ethic and affection. "She cooks with love," he said.

Their plan is to keep the Friday night buffet going as long as McIntyre enjoys herself. She cooks at the club on a 12-burner professional stove, using groceries bought by the staff at her direction.

"I'm my own boss," McIntyre said. "I tell them what to do, and I don't let them in the kitchen."

She usually prepares enough food each Friday night for 75 to 100 customers, unless someone calls ahead warning that they're bringing a large party.

McIntyre serves only what she has cooked earlier in the day, declining to enter the kitchen again -- until the next week.

"I love the people," she said. "If I quit, ain't nobody going to feed them. They can't cook as good as me."