Ideas for enjoying the season's abundant crop of tomatoes

It's a tasty question to face: What to do with all those colorful, juicy, ripe tomatoes growing in your garden, or spilling from farm fresh market stands?

This is the season to explore new ways to prepare the plump fruit, and taste the different heirloom varieties that come in a rainbow of colors, including red, orange, yellow, green, white, purple -- and even brown, black and mottled.

Tomato purists argue that nothing matches the succulence and sweetness of a just-picked tomato, eaten uncooked and out of hand. Advocates of fresh tomatoes accompany them with basil, or pair them with the freshest mozzarella or goat cheese, lightly seasoned with salt, fresh ground pepper, and a sprinkling of extra virgin olive oil.

Tomatoes were not always so well liked, though. Indigenous to South America, the tomato was domesticated in Central America and Mexico, and then taken back to Spain by early explorers. But because tomatoes are members of the nightshade family, some thought them to be deadly. (Their leaves do contain toxic alkaloids.) They became popular in this country only in the 1900s.

Ironically, tomatoes also gained a reputation as a powerful aphrodisiac. The French called them "pommes d'amour" or "love apples." Like the apple, the tomato is botanically a fruit, but in 1893 the U.S. government classified it as a vegetable for trade purposes.

Whether you call it a fruit or a vegetable, tomatoes rate high on the healthy foods scale. Because they're a good source of vitamins A and C, they have gained attention in recent years for their antioxidant value. In particular, they contain the nutrient lycopene, which gives them their vibrant color and is related to beta carotene. The nutrient is concentrated when tomatoes are heated.

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This fish dish has fresh halibut topped with a salsa sauce of tomatoes, red onions, garlic, lemon zest, orange zest, thyme, Italian parsley, olives and anchovies. It's served over lightly cooked spinach accented with wine, and it has summer flavors that will taste great all year long.

Sauteed Halibut with Wilted Spinach and Tomato Dressing

For the dressing:

8 large Roma tomatoes, skinned and diced into 1/2-inch pieces (see following directions)

2 small red onions, diced

4 cloves garlic, chopped

Grated zest of 1 lemon

Grated zest of 1 orange

1 tablespoon fresh thyme, chopped

2 tablespoons fresh Italian parsley, chopped

1/2 cup pitted sliced olives

2 anchovies, minced (optional)

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon fresh ground black pepper

3/4 teaspoon sugar

1/2 cup red wine vinegar

2 cups extra virgin olive oil

For the spinach:

1 small yellow onion, diced

1/2 cup white wine

1 1/2 pounds of fresh spinach

1/4 teaspoon salt

Freshly ground black pepper, to taste

For the halibut:

Extra-virgin olive oil to coat pan

6 halibut fillets, about 6 ounces each, skin removed

Salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste

To make the dressing:

Slice off the top and bottom ends of the tomatoes and cut the tomatoes lengthwise into quarters, removing the seeds. Lay the tomato quarters skin side down on a cutting board and filet the skins from the meat. Dice the tomatoes into 1/2-inch pieces.

Combine the tomatoes, red onions, garlic, lemon zest, orange zest, thyme, Italian parsley, olives and anchovies and gently toss in a metal bowl. Add the salt, pepper and sugar. Mix gently. Add the red wine vinegar and stir. Carefully add the extra-virgin olive oil, making sure that the oil covers the ingredients. Marinate the dressing for four hours.

To make the spinach:

Heat a large stockpot over medium heat. Add half the onions, half the wine, half the spinach, the salt and pepper. Cook together until the spinach is wilted by half. Add the rest of the onions, wine and spinach. (Half of the spinach will be more cooked; this will add variation to the color and texture). If desired, season with salt and pepper, to taste.

To make the halibut:

Season the fish on both sides with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Bring a large sauté pan to high heat. Add olive oil and then sauté the fish in the pan with the "skin" side down for about 3 minutes, until this side appears to be crisp and golden brown. Flip the fish to its other side and cook for an additional 3 minutes. The halibut is best served when it is still medium-rare to medium on the inside. Note: Longer cooking may result in the fish becoming dry.

To assemble the dish:

Divide the spinach among 6 plates and place the sautéed halibut over the spinach. Stir the dressing, and then evenly divide the dressing over each portion of halibut.

Makes 6 servings.

Chef's Note: The dressing used in this recipe can also be used with arugula to create a flavorful salad.

(Recipe by Paul Klitsie, executive chef and co-owner Ristorante Fratelli, Portland, Ore.)

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Bruschetta, made with baguette rubbed with garlic for extra flavor, is an extremely versatile bread preparation, delicious when topped with a rich and thick tomato stew and fresh goat cheese.

Bruschetta

1 baguette

6 teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 clove garlic

Salt and fresh ground pepper, to taste

Preheat oven to 450 degrees, or preheat grill over high heat.

Slice six 1/2-inch pieces of the baguette on a 45-degree angle. Coat each slice with about 1 teaspoon olive oil, and salt and pepper. Roast the slices in the oven or on the grill until they are golden brown on each side. Remove from heat.

Cut the clove of garlic in half. While the bread is still warm, rub one side of the bread with the garlic. Top with Caponata and small dollops of fresh goat cheese, as desired.

Makes 6 servings.

(Recipe by Paul Klitsie.)

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By using egg substitute and reduced-fat cheese, this recipe manages to be both hearty and low in fat. The flavorful tomatoes of the season, paired with sweet onions, red bell peppers and basil, make this a wholesome, tasty, vegetable-rich dish.

Pair a slice of savory summer pie with salad with a light vinaigrette for a rustic summer lunch or dinner.

Savory Summer Pie

4 phyllo pastry sheets, thawed

Vegetable cooking spray

1 small red bell pepper, chopped

1/2 small sweet onion, chopped

2 garlic cloves, minced

3 tablespoons chopped fresh basil

1 cup egg substitute

1 cup whole milk

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon pepper

1 1/2 cups (6 ounces) shredded part-skim mozzarella cheese

1/4 cup shredded Parmesan cheese

2 large plum tomatoes, cut into 1/4-inch thick slices

Place 1 phyllo sheet in a 9-inch tart pan, gently pressing on bottom and up sides of pan. (Phyllo will hang over edge of pan.) Lightly coat with cooking spray. Repeat with 3 more sheets of phyllo, coating with cooking spray between layers. Trim phyllo dough 3 to 4 inches over edge of pan. Quickly fold edges under. (Phyllo dries out quickly.)

Bake at 425 degrees for 6 to 7 minutes. Remove from oven; set aside.

Sauté bell pepper and onion in a large skillet coated with cooking spray, over medium-high heat, 4 to 5 minutes. Add garlic, sauté 1 minute. Stir in basil.

Whisk together egg substitute and next 3 ingredients in a large bowl; stir in sautéed vegetables, mozzarella cheese and Parmesan cheese. Pour into prepared tart shell; top with tomato slices.

Bake at 375 degrees for 45 to 50 minutes or until set. Let stand 5 minutes before serving.

Makes 8 servings.

(Recipe from the "Lighter Side of the Season" feature in the August issue of Southern Living magazine.)

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For this Sicilian vegetable dish, charred eggplant, tomatoes, onions, garlic and celery are stewed in a single pan, finished with balsamic vinegar and espresso, and served hot or cold or over bruschetta.

Caponata Calda (Sicilian Vegetable Stew)

10 tablespoons olive oil

2 green zucchini, diced into 1/2-inch pieces

3 celery stalks, diced into 1/2-inch pieces

1 large red onion, diced into 1/4-inch pieces

2 cloves garlic, thinly sliced

2 medium-sized eggplants, cubed into 1/2-inch pieces

6 large Roma tomatoes, halved and with the green heart removed from the center

4 tablespoons tomato juice

2 tablespoons black olives, pitted and sliced

3 tablespoons red wine vinegar

1/2 cup strong coffee

Salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste

Heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil in a heavy saucepan over high heat. Add the zucchini, celery, onion and garlic and stir constantly for 5 minutes. Use a wooden spoon to prevent burning on the bottom of the pan. After 5 minutes, lower the heat to medium-low.

Heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil in a large sauté pan over high heat. Add half of the eggplant and roast until brown. Repeat with 2 tablespoons of the olive oil and the other half of the eggplant. Add eggplant to the vegetable mixture.

Add the tomatoes, the tomato juice and the olives to the mixture. Turn the heat to low. Stir in the vinegar and the remaining 4 tablespoons olive oil. Let the vegetables stew uncovered for about 20 minutes, stirring occasionally. Once stewed, add the coffee. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve warm or chilled, or on bruschetta (recipe follows).

Makes 6 servings.

(Recipe by Paul Klitsie.)

Basil gelato, made with a delicate and flavorful basil-infused custard, is a perfect way to finish off a tomato-themed meal.

Basil Gelato

1 1/2 cups sugar

2 cups heavy whipping cream

2 cups whole milk

10 to 12 large basil leaves, roughly chopped

12 egg yolks

Note: A thermometer is needed for this recipe.

Combine the milk and cream. Put half the sugar into a bowl and add 1 cup of the milk-cream mixture. Add the egg yolks until thoroughly blended. Set aside.

Put the remaining half of the sugar into a heavy saucepan. Add the remaining 3 cups of the milk-cream mixture. Add the basil and slowly bring to a boil (once the mixture is heated, it will reach a boil quickly). As soon as the mixture reaches a boil, remove it from the heat and let stand for about 5 minutes.

Using a wooden spoon, slowly stir the contents of the saucepan into the bowl containing the egg mixture. Then place a strainer over the saucepan and pour the combined mixture back into the saucepan. Bring the mixture to medium heat until it reaches 178 F, stirring constantly. (Do not exceed this temperature or the eggs will overcook.)

Pour the mixture through the strainer into a bowl surrounded by ice. Let rest until it is cold. Then, pour the mixture into the ice-cream maker and spin until frozen. Let it set in the freezer for about 3 hours before serving.

Makes 6 servings.

(Recipe by Paul Klitsie.)

Fratelli Panzanella Salad

This fresh salad includes tomatoes, basil and roasted red peppers with vinegar and oil, tossed with mixed greens and garnished with Parmesan and freshly toasted breadcrumbs.

For the panzanella:

1 cucumber, peeled, seeded and cubed

1 red onion, julienned

2 ripened tomatoes, cut into quarters

3 roasted red peppers, julienned

5 anchovy fillets ground into paste

1 tablespoon minced garlic

1/3 cup red wine vinegar

1 cup extra-virgin olive oil

Salt and fresh ground pepper, to taste

1 cup fresh basil, thinly sliced

For the base and garnish:

1/4 pound mixed greens

1/4 cup fresh grated parmesan cheese

1/4 cup freshly toasted bread crumbs

2 cups freshly toasted croutons

To make the panzanella: Place all the ingredients in a large mixing bowl and toss gently. Put the mixture in a cool place to marinate for three hours. When ready to serve, bring the panzanella to room temperature. Strain the mixture slightly to eliminate excess juice and prevent salad from getting soggy.

To serve, add the panzanella to the greens and garnish, and gently toss. Taste for seasoning and adjust with salt and pepper. Arrange the mixture on a large plate and serve.

Makes 6 servings.

Chef's note: This is a very simple recipe and is dependent on the best-quality tomatoes. Please do not try it with poor-quality tomatoes!

(Recipe by Paul Klitsie)