Grape expectations: New study shows Illinois' wineries ripening

As retirement neared, Illinois hand surgeon David Conner knew exactly what he wanted to do once he put away his scalpel for good: hit the bottle. And the barrel. And the vineyard.

The 65-year-old Conner parlayed a mind for chemistry, thick wallet and sprawling acreage into his Kickapoo Creek Winery near Peoria, joining a growing number of winemakers in a state better known for Abe Lincoln, corn and coal.

And if a recent study is any indication, the time looks ripe for folks like Conner.

The number of Illinois wineries has grown more than fivefold in the past 10 years, according to the study by wine industry analysts MKF Research, released this month by the Illinois Grape Growers and Vintners Association.

Illinois has 68 wineries -- about 10 of which opened in the past 18 months -- and 450 grape growers. In 1997, the state had about a dozen wineries, proof to state agriculture chief Charles Hartke that "in the last 10 years, the Illinois wine industry has exploded."

Marsha Conner boxed freshly bottled wine Thursday at the Kickapoo Creek Winery in Edwards, Ill.

Conner has no regrets about bankrolling his million-dollar winery. He opened a tasting room in 2005 and last year added a reception area that has proven popular for weddings.

The study found that 69 of the state's 102 counties, about 68 percent, have at least one vineyard, and more than one-third of the counties have at least one winery. About 1,200 acres statewide are devoted to growing grapes -- each acre produces about three tons of fruit -- compared to 140 acres a decade ago.

Illinois' wine industry has a statewide economic impact of $253 million, the study found. Another $31 million is generated by wine-related tourism, thanks largely to the 155,000 people who visited an Illinois winery last year.

"We've known for three or four years the Illinois grape industry was rapidly expanding, but we had no inclination it was to the extent or magnitude of this report," said Dick Faltz, president of the Fox Valley Winery in Oswego, near Chicago.

And yet, Faltz said, "I don't think we've really scratched the surface in Illinois."

Kickapoo Creek Winery owner David Conner shows off his freshly filled wine bottles at his winery in Edwards, Ill., Thursday Jan. 11, 2007. A recent study released by the Illinois Grape Growers and Vintners Association found that Illinois has 68 wineries and 450 grape growers, with about 10 wineries opening in the last year and a half alone. Illinois' wine industry contributes $254 million to the state's economy each year. (AP Photo/Seth Perlman)

Vintners and experts cite various reasons for the increase, including the appeal of alternative farming in a state that already leads the country in producing horseradish and pumpkins.

Observers also point to consumers' increasing thirst for wine, and the state's topography and soil, which are ideal for growing grapes. Illinois wine often is described as fruitier and more pungent than wine produced elsewhere.

While wineries here are thriving, the state is just a bit player compared to California, which produces 90 percent of the nation's wines. Illinois' share of the U.S. market is in the single digits, and most of its wineries produce less than 10,000 gallons per year.

"These are small wineries, and they're selling their wine locally and regionally," said Cyril Penn, editor of the Wine Business Monthly, based in California's wine country.

Every state makes wine in some quantities, Penn said. Even in Alaska, a half dozen wineries ply their craft using grape concentrate because they can't grow their own grapes in the cold climate, Penn said.

Winemaking isn't new to the Midwest, and Illinois used to be among the nation's top producers before Prohibition forced winemakers out of business. Illinois' oldest winery -- Baxter's Winery in Nauvoo -- dates to 1885, when wines reportedly sold for 25 cents a gallon and $12.50 a barrel.

But how much longer can the market accommodate new players before it reaches its saturation point? No worries, Penn said.

"There's plenty of room, absolutely. Especially right now," he said.

And while Illinois isn't likely to reign supreme in U.S. winemaking, entrepreneurs like Conner slowly plug away. Because the 10 acres of grapes Conner has planted incrementally since early 2004 won't mature for another couple of years, he uses grapes grown elsewhere to make 13 wines, from dry red to dessert wines.

Slowly but surely Conner learns as he goes.

"Anybody can take grapes and put them in a barrel, put some yeast in and make wine. But it's very challenging; there's a lot of chemistry involved," he said. "The most interesting thing is it's just like surgery. The winery has to be kept clean, and when you bottle it has to be sterile, just like (an) operating room."

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On the Net:

http://www.illinoiswine.com

http://www.winebusiness.com

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BY THE NUMBERS

• There are 450 grape growers and 68 wineries throughout Illinois.
• 69 Illinois counties have at least one vineyard, and 38 counties have at least one winery.
• 90 percent of Illinois vineyards and 83 percent of wineries were established in the past decade.
• Illinois' wine industry contributes $253 million to the state's economy each year, including winery sales, tourism, tax revenue and wages.
• 155,000 people visited an Illinois winery in 2005.
• Total winery-related tourism spending was $31 million last year.
• Last year, the state's wine and grape sectors paid at least $22.9 million in state and local taxes.