FOR DEER HUNTERS, THE COOKING GAME BEGINS

JEFFERSON CITY -- Ask a dozen Missourians what a white-tailed deer is worth, and you will get a variety of answers. For some, the primary value of deer lies in seeing them. For others, wily whitetail bucks provide a yardstick to measure woodcraft learned over the course of a lifetime. But the most tangible measure of deer's worth is their value as food -- venison.

In monetary terms, venison is a big-ticket item. During Missouri's 11-day firearms deer season in November, hunters checked 186,452 deer. When the kills from archery and muzzleloader seasons and the January firearms deer hunt are added, Missouri's 1997-98 deer harvest is likely to top 220,000.

The average deer weighs about 150 pounds on the hoof and yields approximately 85 pounds of meat. That means Missouri hunters will bring home about 18.7 million pounds of venison steaks, roasts, jerky, sausage and ground venison. Multiply that figure by the per-pound price of lean red meat, and you can see that deer hunting provides a big boost to Missourians' family food budgets.

The ultimate value of venison, however, is determined in the kitchen. Conventional wisdom says that deer meat is gamey and tough, but this doesn't have to be true if you know how to prepare venison. The key is knowing that venison: 1) is extremely lean; 2) can have a strong flavor if it comes from bucks in rut or from animals under extreme stress; 3) can be tough if it comes from old animals.

The most common complaint about venison is that it is dry. Domestic cattle store fat within their muscle tissue, so their meat is self-basting. Deer, however, store fat inside their body cavities, in internal organs and under the skin. Because venison is almost 100 percent lean, it has to be cooked gently or with moist heat or larded liberally.

Dry cooking--frying, for instance--can toughen even the most succulent cuts of venison. But if you take a 1-inch-thick slice of tenderloin, coat it with seasoned flour and then saute it very gently in butter, the results can be heavenly. The trick is to use very low heat and quit while the meat is still rare.

If you insist on having your venison steak well-done, sprinkle it with meat tenderizer. Then place it on a wooden cutting board and pound it flat with the edge of a saucer. Let it stand in the refrigerator for an hour or two before dredging in flour and cooking.

For a low-fat dish, omit the flour. Put seasonings directly on the steak and cook in a non-stick skillet with just a touch of vegetable oil spray.

Moist cooking is the easiest way to ensure that venison doesn't dry out. But a venison roast can be dry and tough even if you immerse it in water before popping it in the oven. The key here is not to overcook the meat. Use a 300-degree oven, check the meat frequently, and remove it as soon as it is cooked enough to eat. For smaller cuts, brown the surface of the meat briefly in a fry pan, then add sliced onion, seasonings and a cup of water. Cover tightly and cook over very low heat until tender.

For killer gravy, remove the meat and keep the pan drippings on low heat. Dissolve a tablespoon or two of flour or corn starch in cool water and add slowly to the pan until the drippings thicken. Add salt to taste and pour over the meat.

Larding sounds fancier than it really is. The simplest, most popular and tastiest way to do it is to cover every exposed meat surface with strips of bacon. This adds fat and prevents loss of moisture. It also adds wonderful flavor, especially if you use smoked bacon. You still have to be careful not to overcook, though. Venison jerky can be the consistency of shoe leather. For tender jerky, freeze the cuts you intend to use, then let them thaw until the meat starts to soften. If you cut the meat while it still has ice crystals inside, you will be able to make very thin, even slices. Be sure to cut across the grain, so muscle fibers are cut into short lengths.

After slicing, marinade overnight in a mixture of soy or Worcestershire sauce, pepper, garlic, meat tenderizer and any "secret" spices you favor. If you plan to cook it in the oven rather than a wood fire, add liquid smoke to the marinade. Cook on wire racks at very low heat until the meat is thoroughly dried. You can leave it moist if you have storage space in the freezer.

Meat from large, mature bucks in rut can have a strong, even objectionable taste. Slicing thin and soaking overnight in buttermilk or vinegar water will help, but beyond that your best bet is to use highly-seasoned recipes. Tangy sauces heavy on wine, vinegar and tomatoes are a good bet. Oriental dishes with soy sauce and garlic work well, too. Smoke improves almost any wild meat, and "Ol' Hatrack" is no exception. In extreme cases, try tomatoey oriental sauces with garlic and liquid smoke.

A good cookbook is extremely helpful in making the best use of venison. The "NRA Members' Cookbook" has a wealth of venison recipes. It is available for $7.50 plus shipping from National Rifle Association, Sales Department, P.O. Box 5000, Kearneysville, WV 25430-5000. Phone 800/336-7402.

A perennial favorite in the Show-Me State is "Cy Littlebee's Guide to Cooking Fish and Game." It is available at Missouri Department of Conservation regional service centers and nature centers statewide for $3 plus tax.