FACES OF THE ST. FRANCIS RIVER

Farmington, Mo. -- In the St. Francois Mountains of Iron County, one of Missouri's most unique streams begins as a trickle born out of granite. This stream's journey south is a series of transitions, each resulting in a different personality.

The St. Francis River is barely underway before it is dammed to form Bismarck Lake. Below Bismarck the river takes on the appearance of a pleasant little rill suitable for wading. But during periods of high flow it transforms into a raging whitewater torrent, cascading through gorges, around boulders and over ledges -- geological features known locally as shut-ins. As elevation diminishes, the St. Francis again assumes a more peaceful nature, providing tamer boating and great fishing.

Next, its moving waters slow to form Wappapello Lake. Below Wappapello Lake, the St. Francis picks up momentum again, but is confined mostly to a manmade channel. Finally, before the river exits Missouri at the Bootheel, it spreads into some natural stretches where tupelo and cypress trees grow thick. Here the river's waters open a window to the past, when most of southeast Missouri was swamp.

Public land isn't scarce on the upper St. Francis -- the portion from its headwaters to Wappapello Dam. Between the Missouri Department of Conservation's Bismarck Lake Conservation Area and the US Army Corps of Engineers' Wappapello Lake, there are three state parks, six CAs, several USDA Forest Service campgrounds and four MDC public fishing accesses. Portions of the Ozark Trail also traverse the watershed.

MDC's Bismarck Lake CA has 1,188 acres of oak-hickory forest, but the 210-acre lake is its predominant feature. The lake has a disabled accessible fishing jetty where anglers can try for bass, bluegill, crappie and channel catfish. Boats with motors of 10 horsepower or less or electric motors may be launched from the lake's ramp. Boaters and anglers must contend with a lot of aquatic vegetation during the warm season. To find Bismarck Lake CA, take Highway N south from Bismarck to Grider Road to Lakeview Road.

MDC's Gruner Ford Access is three miles south of Farmington on Highway H. This area is a favorite with flyrod- and ultralight-wielding anglers who are willing to employ wade-fishing tactics.

West of Fredericktown on Highway 72 is MDC's Roselle Access and Millstream Gardens CA. This stretch of the St. Francis can be treacherous during periods of high water because of the steep gradient and the many granite boulders and ledges. It's a challenge for even the most experienced kayakers. Caution signs are posted at access points.

During periods of high flow, this stretch is rated as Class IV and V water. Most Missouri streams rate less than Class III. Personal flotation devices are a must, and one seldom sees savvy boaters on this stretch without a helmet. Ironically, during periods of low water this upper section of the St. Francis may become too low for floating. That's when wade-fishing picks up. Anglers should be diligent, because even with low flow the river's slick boulders and moving water can be dangerous.

Some of the drier attractions at Millstream Gardens include a walk-through archery range, a natural area and a trail system that connects with the USFS Turkey Creek Campground and Silver Mines Recreation Area. Road access to the USFS land is by way of Highway D in Madison County.

Other USFS camping facilities are available at Marble Creek on Highway E at the Iron/Madison county line. For solitude, hunters, backpackers and hikers will find 4,000-acre USFS Rockpile Mountain Wilderness hard to beat. Motor vehicles are not allowed.

For further information on MDC land mentioned here, contact: District Forester, Missouri Department of Conservation, 2302 County Park Dr., Cape Girardeau, MO 63701. Phone: (573) 290-5730. For information on USFS land contact Potosi/Fredericktown Ranger District, P.O. Box 188, Potosi, MO 63664. Phone: (573) 438-5427. District maps are $3 each.

Highway D in Madison County, is a favorite starting place for float-anglers. Below this point the hazards of boulders, waterfalls and whitewater are less of a concern. The river becomes a series of long pools with excellent fishing for black bass, goggle-eye and catfish.

This stretch lacks the crowds sometimes found upstream. The necessity of paddling through long pools of quiet water and distances between put-ins and take-outs are probably two reasons it is less popular. A two- or three-day float with plenty of time for fishing and sightseeing is a good way to make the best of these long stretches. There are plenty of gravel bars suitable for camping.

The Little St. Francis River adds its volume to the St. Francis below Highway D. Floaters can explore this tributary from MDC's Thompson Ford Access on Madison County Road 503, via MCR 504, which is off Highway 72 west of Fredericktown.

Along Highway E in Madison County, road and stream parallel each other for several miles. The steep river banks and lack of shoulder beside the road give this the feel of a mountain gorge. MDC's Coldwater Access is in northern Wayne County west of Highway 67. It doesn't have a boat ramp, but launching is possible from the gravel bar at the end of Wayne County Road 302.

Nearby Coldwater CA is more than 7,000 acres of oak and pine forest. This CA is made up of several tracts of land. Literature about Coldwater CA is available from: District Forester, RR 1, Box 1002, Piedmont, MO 63957. Phone: (573) 223-4525.

Another outdoor recreation dimension to consider within the St. Francis River watershed is state parks administered by the Missouri Department of Natural Resources. St. Joe State Park is two miles west of Farmington. At 8,561 acres, this is one of Missouri's largest state parks. Its size leads to a multitude of outdoor opportunities.

Off-road-vehicle enthusiasts flock to St. Joe, where they have 1,600 acres of sand flats for their activities. These flats are a remnant of the area's mining heritage. Miles of equestrian, bicycling and hiking trails are available for the non-motorized crowd at St. Joe State Park, and campgrounds serve all. The St. Francis River runs through the south end of the park, and there are four lakes within its boundaries. On the north side of the park visitors will want to check out Missouri Mines State Historic Site, which documents the area's mining industry.

The 5,164-acre Sam A. Baker State Park also caters to equestrians, bicyclists and hikers. This park has a 12-mile backpack trail through unique geological features, and the Ozark Trail can be accessed here. Big Creek and the St. Francis River provide aquatic adventure for park visitors. Canoe rental is available. Named for Missouri Governor and educator Sam A. Baker this park is located near Patterson in Wayne County.

Lake Wappapello State Park is situated on a peninsula with access to Wappapello Lake. This 1,854-acre state park on Highway 172 in Wayne County makes a good fishing base camp. For information on state parks, contact: DNR, P.O. Box 176, Jefferson City, MO 65102. Phone: (800) 334-6946.

The upper reaches of the Corps of Engineers' 8,400-acre Wappapello Lake has many access sites, campgrounds and picnic areas. Anglers should take note of lake boundary signs above the community of Greenville. In an effort to better manage Wappapello's black bass, there is no length limit for that overpopulated species, and anglers are encouraged to harvest the smaller bass. The daily creel limit is six black bass. It's always wise to consult the fishing regulations before an outing.

Much of Wappapello Lake's boundary lands are managed by the MDC. This provides thousands of acres for hunting, hiking and nature study.