Discovery of brewery unearths part of history in Cape Girardeau

The recent discovery by county health officials of a century-old two-story beer cellar at Morgan Oak and Middle streets unearthed a little-known part of Cape Girardeau history: the history of beer.

According to a 1906 newspaper report, the Cape Brewery and Ice Co. was the biggest brewery in Missouri outside of St. Louis and Kansas City, with the capacity for 8,000 barrels of beer a year (there are 32 gallons in a barrel).

Leading brands of beer produced in Cape Girardeau were Standard Lager, Royal Export, and Drummers' Choice. On July 27, 1907, the Daily Republican reported that the Cape Brewery began selling its new brand, Capaha beer.

Cape Girardeau's 1906 city directory celebrated the amber brew, extolling the "health-giving and invigorating drink" that would be an "indispensable adjunct to the everyday wants of all classes of society." The Southeast Missouri product was described as "just the thing for invalids and the perfect beer for table use." Cape Girardeau beer was reported to be the most popular beer in southern Missouri, Illinois, western Kansas and Arkansas and "unsurpassed" in "absolute purity, flavor and nourishing qualities."

In 1912, the Cape Brewery offered "$50 in gold" to the person who would send in the best name for its new beer. The award went to a high-school student named Earlie J. Chostner for the name "Ideal." He said he expected to "buy a buggy" with the money.

Many familiar beer brands from St. Louis may have faced fierce competition had not Cape's brewery closed down in 1940.

Revived industry

Sixty-five years later, the brewery business has been revived in the river city. Buckner's Brewing Company produces beers such as Irish Stout, Pale Ale, Amber Ale, Porter, Honey Wheat, Irish Coffee Stout, Raspberry Wheat, Hefeweizen, English Bitter and California Common.

Mike Mills, a 27-year-old brewer, studies historical beer styles in books and online, samples the styles available at the grocery store and then writes a recipe. "We try to produce the historical beer styles as close to tradition as humanly possible," Mills said.

Buckner's has five styles of beer available at all times, and rotates two, three, or four. The brewers are currently discussing making 22-ounce bottles of beer available for patrons to buy at the restaurant.

Currently they produce a 450-gallon batch once or twice a week.