ALL THAT GLITTES: JEWELRY SALES BRIGHT IN ECONOMY

June may be the traditional season for weddings, but when it comes to the diamonds that traditionally make up the wedding ring, there is no season.

Diamonds, as they say, "are forever," and women (a good number of men, too,) have coveted the precious stone for just about as long.

Diamonds were a late comer in jewelry history, which dates back to prehistoric times, becoming popular during the 1500s and 1600s.

Diamonds are a force in the jewelry market. More than 35 percent of jewelry purchases are diamonds, which translates into more than $12.2 billion of the more than $35 billion a year jewelry business.

June, the month of love, weddings and wedding anniversaries, of course, is a big month on the national jewelry scene.

The second and fourth quarters are always big ones for the retail jewelry industry, which is made up of more than 28,500 jewelry retailers, 4,500 wholesalers and more than 4,700 manufacturers of jewelry.

A number of independent and discount jewelry operations are in Cape Girardeau County.

Jewelry sales were up 13 percent during the second quarter -- which includes June -- of last year.

And, with the strong economy, jewelry sales have grown the past two years nationally -- reaching more than $35 billion a year. This is in comparison to 1994 totals, which failed to reach the $30 billion mark ($29 billion).

During the same period of time, retail jewelry stores have decreased but increased in sales, due largely to a number of retail chain stores in malls and strip centers that now sell jewelry.

Jewelers of America Inc. points out that the industry has different types of jewelry businesses, each with its own customers.

These include the giant national retail chains and discount stores, which rely heavy on volume shopper traffic.

The independents, usually locally owned, and other hometown jewelry stores, cater to generations of customers.

Woman are the biggest group of jewelry buyers, according to a jewelry trade journal, the Jewelers' Circular-Keystone, which has conducted surveys on jewelry purchases.

The JCK report said the typical jewelry buyer is a woman between ages 18 and 24, who spends $100 or less at a fine jewelry store for a necklace or pendant, followed by earrings.

The survey indicated that women account for 63 percent of jewelry purchases.

Men mostly purchase diamonds and watches.

Watches claim about 10 percent of the annual jewelry market, with sales of more than $3.5 billion a year. Varieties range from wind-up to battery powered to those powered through the mvoements of the wearer's arm.

Independent jewelry retailers comprise one of 14 businesses expected to do well in the economic climate during the next century, according to a new study, entitled "Retail Trends, the Next Five Years: Surviving the turn of the Century."

The study, conducted by G.A. Wright Inc., a retail management consulting firm headquartered in Denver, analyzes trends in retailing.

Teen-agers are a big factor in the purchase of jewelry. U.S. teens spent more than $69 billion of their own money on jewelry, makeup, clothes, compact discs and entertainment.

The No. 1 accessory among those 13 to 19 is silver jewelry, said the study. They are looking for bold shiny metal designs, especially in belts and waste chains, cuffs, ID and ankle bracelets. Silver also shows up in makeup and hair ornaments.

Behind diamonds on the biggest jewelry seller list is karat gold jewelry, with 20 percent, or more than $7 billion a year. Two other categories are in two figure percentages. Gemstone jewelry represent 12 percent or $4.2 billion of all jewelry sales. Watches account for 10.1 percent in sales.

Other items and percentage of annual jewelry sold:

Other jewelry, 4.2 percent; loose gemstones, 3.6 percent; pearl jewelry, 3.4 percent; repairs, 3.1 percent; all other merchandise, 2.8 percent; estate-antique jewelry, 2.1 percent; China and glassware, 1.2 percent; flatware-hollow ware, 0.9 percent; clocks, 0.3 percent.

People have been wearing jewelry throughout history.

Prehistoric jewelry consisted of rude necklaces and bracelets, made from leather or reed strung with pebbles, berries, feathers, shells or bones.

People used decorative thorns or sharp bones to hold clothing together. Eventually, people pierced their ears, lips and noses to wear such objects.

People wore jewelry as part of religious ceremonies or to show rank. They thought certain jewelry could prevent sickness.

As early as 3500 B.C., people made jewelry from silver, gold and bronze. They found that by heating these metals, they could be pounded into thin sheets and molded into whatever shape they wanted.

By the late 2000 B.C., Egyptians used gemstones. Egyptians thought the gems had magical powers and wore them in bracelets, brooches, headdress, pendants and rings, for good luck.

The Greeks valued fine metalwork in their jewelry. They rarely used inlaid gems, but Greek jewelry featured beautiful filigree, a lace-like decoration made by twisting fine wires of gold or silver into patterns.

During the early Middle Ages, starting about 7600 A.D., the wearing of jewelry was almost entirely restricted to royalty and members of the royal courts. But during 1200 to 1400, a middle class arose, accruing jewelry and wearing it as a sign of social status. Gold was the most prominent precious metal, though some bronze and silver was used.

Jewelry most often took the form of brooches, buckles, head ornaments and rings. Precious stones came into vogue during the 1500s and by this time merchants known as jewelers were producing jewelry.

Most jewelry today is machine made, although some expensive pieces are still created by hand.