The seeds for one of the country's largest agricultural crops were sown almost three centuries ago.
Legend has it that rice was introduced to the United State in the late 1600s, when a storm-damaged ship from Madagascar sought refuge in the harbor at Charleston, S.C. In gratitude for the refuge, the ship's captain presented the governor of the colony a sack of seed rice.
For almost 200 years after that, South Carolina was the nation's leading rice producer.
Now rice production has moved mostly west -- all the way to California -- and a few states between, including Missouri.
The rice story in the United States is one of growth, to the point that even Japan has joined a growing list of importers of the American-grown rice.
Until 1992, Japan was the greatest single agricultural customer of the United States, but had never purchased rice. Today that's changed.
"This is a recent development," said Diane Neahr, a representative of the USA Rice Council, headquartered at Houston, Texas. "Japanese farmers had a bad growing season in 1993. The country had a two million-pound shortfall, and bought a lot of medium-grain rice from the U.S."
Neahr said that 40-45 percent of U.S.-grown rice is being exported to more than 100 countries. Among the most recent customers are Mexico and the European Community.
Rice production has more than doubled in the United States during the past decade, and Southeast Missouri farmers in a half dozen counties are sharing in the rice success story.
About 90 per cent of Missouri rice is grown in two nearby counties Stoddard and Butler.
"About 400 Missouri farmers planted more than 115,000 acres of rice last year," said Neahr, who was in Cape Girardeau this week to discuss rice and the industry's growth and future.
Butler and Stoddard counties are the big rice-producing areas in Missouri, which is one of only seven states that raise the crop.
Figures from 1992 show Butler County with 57,900 acres of rice, with a yield of 2.7 million pounds. Stoddard County farmers had more than 37,000 acres, producing 1.7 million pounds.
All Missouri rice is raised in the state's southern third, including New Madrid County, with about 10,600 acres, Pemiscot County, 3,700 acres, and Ripley County with 4,300 acres.
"That leaves about 3,000 acres in a few other nearby counties," said Neahr.
Rice first was grown in Southeast Missouri by George Begley in 1911 on a single acre north of Dudley.
But last year, more than 115,000 acres of rice were planted, producing more than 5.4 million pounds. Those figures are up more than 30 percent over figures of three years ago, when Missouri farmers planted just less than 80,000 figures.
One of the reasons for the big increase could be the construction of a new rice mill at New Madrid. The Lewis Dreyfus Co. milling company started operations in late 1988.
"Rice growing requires a special combination of climate and terrain to produce a top quality grain," said Neahr.
That special combination is found in two regions of the U.S. -- the south-central Gulf region and California.
Rice land is covered with two to three inches of water during most of the growing season to inhibit weed and grass growth. A good supply of fresh water is vital to rice farming.
As the rice grows, the water level is raised via use of irrigation canals. When the rice is mature, the water is drained from the field and the crop harvested using combines with special headers.
Arkansas is the top rice-producing state in the nation, producing about two-thirds of all U.S. rice. Missouri, Florida, Texas, Louisiana and Mississippi are big rice producing states. California, however, is the second largest rice producer, noted Neahr.
"The U.S. has earned a reputation as a reliable supplier of high quality rice," said Neahr. "We've been promoting U.S. rice since the late 1950s, and consumers are always learning more about U.S. rice."
In 1993, more than 2.8 million acres of rice were grown in the United States, producing more than 5.6 billion pounds or an average of 5,000 pounds per acre.
Neahr provides some rice statistics.
"Consumption of rice has doubled in the past 15 years," she said. "A recent survey indicated that 72 percent of restaurants and institutions serve rice every day."
She added that U.S. rice exports during the past year were the second highest on record, reaching 2.8 million metric tons. "You can find U.S. rice on tables in Turkey, Jordan and Mexico, just to name a few," she said. "Rice is one of the most versatile foods on the menu today," said Neahr. "It can be used in soups, salads, as a main dish, side dish, or dessert."
On average, Americans eat about 22 pounds of rice annually, almost double the consumption rate only 20 years ago. In Japan, people eat an average of a third pound of rice daily, or more than 120 pounds annually.
Rice is a base for many types of popular foods, including Chinese, Cajun, Creole and Tex-Mex.
"It can certainly stretch the food budget too," said Neahe. "The cost is about 4 cents per serving. It's quick and easy to prepare."
Ninety-six percent of rice found on U.S. tables is grown here, she added.
There are only three types of rice -- long grain, medium grain and short grain -- but thousands of varieties. There are U.S. rice research centers in eight areas, including one that opened in 1991 at Glennonville, between Malden and Qulin in the Bootheel.
The Glennonville center is one of two farmer-owned rice research centers in the country. The other center is in California. The research center is funded through a rice checkoff by farmers.
"The research plot is a valuable asset to farmers," said a spokesman of the center. "Through this grower-supported research, rice breeders develop new rice varieties, enhancing the quality and quantity of rice."
The Lemont variety is the most popular in Southeast Missouri, with Alan second on the list. Other varieties planted last year include Tebonnet, Katy, Millie, Gulfmont, Maybelle and Labelle.
Rice production also provides an economic boost in other products.
-- Rice hulls are used in the manufacture of some hand soaps and as an abrasive in polishing operations. Thousands of tons of hulls also are used as conditioners for commercial fertilizers.
-- Rice bran is rich in protein and Natural B-vitamins, and is often used in the manufacture of vitamin concentrates as well as feed for cattle.
-- Rice oil, extracted from rice bran, is a high-quality, cholesterol-free cooking oil,
-- Rice polish is produced during the final stages of the rice mill process, and consists of the inner cuticle layer of the grain, plus small quantities of the outer layer of the kernel. It is in demand as a livestock feed and also is being used for human consumption.
-- Rice flour can be used in place of wheat for baking.
-- Brewers rice, the smallest size of broken rice fragments, is used in pet foods and as a carbohydrate source in brewing.
Rice outlook and rice industry issues will be a topic of discussing during the National Rice Industry Outlook Conference, scheduled for Dec. 5-6, at Reno, Nev. The annual conference is a forum to discuss industry issues.
California is the host state for this year's forum, coordinated by the Agricultural Extension Services in the rice states, the USA Rice Council, the Rice Foundation, Rice Millers' Association, U.S. Rice Producers' Group and others in the rice industry.
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