Viva el Choco Taco

Recently Klondike, the maker of ice cream bars and frozen novelties, announced it was discontinuing production of the iconic Choco Taco, a circular waffle cone folded to resemble a taco shell and filled with ice cream.

Products come and go all the time, of course. The majority, like the Edsel, are quickly forgotten or not long mourned. But others are deeply lamented and even produce passionate reactions. So it was with the Choco Taco.

When the story of its demise first broke, Snopes, the website dedicated to debunking groundless claims, said it was false. Only hours later they had to retract that assessment after Klondike's parent company, Unilever, confirmed the news. In so doing Snopes admitted that it may have erred partly because it couldn't bear the thought that the Choco Taco was headed for extinction.

Soon after hearing the news, Senator Chris Murphy of Connecticut, possibly tongue in cheek, issued a statement vowing, "Tomorrow I am introducing legislation to invoke the Defense Production Act to mandate the continued manufacture of Choco Tacos."

Speaking for all fans of the delectation, one devotee posted on Reddit, "The world didn't just lose an ice cream taco, it lost its way."

Only four years old and, as previously chronicled in this space, already a connoisseur of frozen treats such as popsicles and snow cones, Tom Harte's grandson discovers the delight of a homemade Choco Taco.Submitted by Tom Harte

Before long profiteers got into the act, offering soon to be rare Choco Tacos on eBay for as much as $1000 each, presumably betting that whatever folks might do for a Klondike Bar, they'd do even more for the exalted version of the ice cream sandwich that is the Choco Taco. And even Salt & Straw, the ice cream shop I regard as the best in the country, announced plans to put out a version of its own Choco Taco (made with premium chocolate and cinnamon-ancho ice cream) on October 4th, National Taco Day.

This hue and cry might never have been anticipated by Alan Drazen, the inventor of the Choco Taco, when he created the treat in 1983 while a manager at Good Humor, purveyor of ice cream out of signature trucks and pushcarts. Faced with competition from unique frozen specialties like Popsicles, he knew his business had to come up with something equally innovative. Inspired by the increased popularity of Mexican food at the time, he came up with the idea and the name for the Choco Taco. And the rest, as they say, is history.

Now Klondike is hinting that it might bring back the Choco Taco, which perhaps offers cold comfort to enthusiasts. But the truth is, you can make your own Choco Taco that easily beats the factory-made kind. All you need is a warmed and reshaped waffle bowl, or better yet an Italian pizzelle, and homemade ice cream to make it feel like a sweet Taco Tuesday no matter what day of the week.

Homemade Choco Tacos

No churn ice cream, adapted from Mia Wolgast's beautiful website, www.miaskitchencounter.com, pairs with a recipe adapted from the manual that came with my vintage Dolce pizzelle iron to create gourmet Choco Tacos.

A pizzelle iron offers a handy way to make Choco Taco shells by draping a just baked pizzelle, while still warm, around a spoon handle.Submitted by Tom Harte

• 1 1 1/2 Mexican discs of Mexican chocolate, such as Ibarra
• 1 pint cream
• 3/4 teaspoon cinnamon
• 2 teaspoons vanilla, divided
• 1/8 teaspoon salt
• 1 can (14 ounces) sweetened condensed milk
• 3 eggs
• 3/4 cup sugar
• 1/2 cup vegetable oil
• 1/4 cup cocoa
• 2 cups flour
• 2 teaspoons baking powder

Roughly chop chocolate. Whip cream with cinnamon, 1 teaspoon vanilla, and salt to soft peaks. Fold whipped cream mixture into condensed milk just until combined. Fold in chocolate, reserving a tablespoon or two for garnish. Spread into 9x5-inch bread pan, cover with foil, and freeze for three hours. Meanwhile, beat eggs, adding sugar gradually. Add oil and blend until smooth. Whisk together cocoa, flour, and baking powder and add to oil and egg mixture a little at a time. Stir in remaining teaspoon vanilla. Place a small scoop of dough onto center of hot, greased pizzelle iron, close lid, and bake for about one minute. Remove pizzelle and while warm drape around wooden spoon or edge of a large bowl to shape into taco shell. Repeat to make several shells. Generously fill each shell with slightly softened Mexican chocolate chip ice cream and sprinkle top of each with chopped additional chocolate discs or dip in melted chocolate.