It takes two to Frango

In an editorial in the New York Times this past Christmas Day, Megan Stack observed that when the holidays are in full swing, candy season reaches its peak and, she laments, it never ends, noting that soon Valentine hearts "nudge against the dwindling supply of Santas in the candy aisle."

Ms. Stack is probably right to be concerned about America's candy culture, as she terms it. Nevertheless, this year I am using the proximity of two of our most candy-centric holidays to my advantage. For Valentine's Day I'm giving my sweetheart the very same candy I always give her for Christmas: Frango Mints.

If you've ever spent any time in the Chicago area, you know that the iconic Frango Mint has been an eagerly awaited holiday tradition there for generations. And if you haven't spent much time there, the candy, for which there is inexplicably no entry in the Oxford Companion to Sugar and Sweets, just might be the best chocolate mint you've never heard of.

Albeit a staple of the Christmas holidays, Frango Mints are not as often associated with Valentine's Day, perhaps because they don't come in heart-shaped boxes and are not fashioned in the form of a rose or a kiss. But in my opinion, they're better than run of the mill Valentine candies and can be the secret ingredient in a myriad of desserts. (The official Frango Cookbook identifies almost fifty treats that can be made with them.)

It all started nearly a hundred years ago when Ray Alden, famed candy maker for the upscale Seattle department store, Frederick and Nelson, devised a chocolate mint truffle using three kinds of chocolate and carrying the name Frango, which had previously been used only for the company's maple flavored frozen confection.

A blender, hot cream, and chopped Frango Mints produce pots de creme in a snap compared to the traditional recipe.Submitted by Tom Harte

A blender, hot cream, and chopped Frango Mints produce pots de creme in a snap compared to the traditional recipe.Submitted by Tom Harte

The origin of the name is not entirely clear. Some contend it is a portmanteau of Frederick, the store's name, and the tango, popular at the time. Others suggest it is an anagram of FRederick And Nelson GOodness. But whatever the case, and despite a story occasionally making the rounds, it is not a corruption of Franco, the name of the Spanish General of the 1930s.

However the candy got its name, ultimately in 1929 Marshall Field & Company, the great department store in America's traditional candy capital, Chicago, bought Frederick & Nelson (rights to the Frango recipe being one of the conditions of the sale). Frango sales flourished there, as the aroma of chocolate melting in giant cauldrons on the 13th floor of the company's flagship store on State Street wafted throughout the store as the candy was being made on the premises.

To the consternation of many, the Frango brand was sold again when in 2006 Marshall Field was bought out by Macy's, but happily for chocolate lovers, Macy's is intent on carrying on the Frango tradition.

While Frango Mints may not look like your typical Valentine candy, they have been melting the hearts of chocolate lovers like me for years. May they continue to do so.

Chopped Frango Mints, when substituted for ordinary chocolate, make for a sophisticated dessert.Submitted by Tom Harte

Chopped Frango Mints, when substituted for ordinary chocolate, make for a sophisticated dessert.Submitted by Tom Harte

Frango Pots de Crème

This decadent chocolate dessert, here featuring Frango mints in place of ordinary chocolate, goes back to a French 17th century recipe whose name means pots or jars of cream. So what's not to like? Traditionally served in specially designed cups decorated in various patterns and colors, any little dish will do, though a heart-shaped ramekin is especially fitting on Valentines Day. This surprisingly quick and easy version, adapted from King Arthur Flour, is every bit as good as the more complicated original version.

Though they aren't heart-shaped, a box of Frango Mints nonetheless make a decadent Valentine's gift.Submitted by Tom Harte

Though they aren't heart-shaped, a box of Frango Mints nonetheless make a decadent Valentine's gift.Submitted by Tom Harte

• 1 cup chopped Frango mints (about 18)
• 1/8 teaspoon salt
• 2 tablespoons sugar
• 1/2 teaspoon espresso powder
• 1 egg
• 1 cup + 2 tablespoons heavy cream
• 1 teaspoon vanilla

Whir the chopped Frango mints, salt, sugar, and espresso powder in a blender until ground. Add egg and pulse until well combined. Heat cream just short of a full boil (205 degrees). With blender on low speed, slowly add cream until combined. Add vanilla and blend thoroughly, about a minute. Divide into serving dishes, cover, and refrigerate until firm, two hours or more. Remove from refrigerator thirty minutes before serving and top with whipped cream and garnish with chopped Frango mints.