Have a rice day

We Americans like to commemorate things -- people, places, events, and even foods. Thus, among the more than 1500 items singled out on the National Day Calendar are many which relate to things to eat.

Some of these "holidays," like National Tater Tot Day, or National Grape Popsicle Day, or National Cheese Doodle Day, might seem trivial. But others recognize foods that surely deserve a day of their own. In fact, some might merit an entire month of celebration.

That's certainly the case with the food that is the subject of today's column. It's more than 100,000 varieties grow on every continent except Antarctica; it feeds more people than any other crop and has for thousands of years; and it can be the principal ingredient in a wide range of dishes from appetizers to desserts. No wonder this month is National Rice Month.

It's not surprising that rice has become one of the major staples on the planet, feeding half the world's population (every third person on earth eats rice every day) even though most of it is eaten within just 10 miles from where it is grown. Its yields are higher and more reliable than wheat; its moisture content is low enough that it can be stored for long periods, as long as ten years in fact; and it tastes good when coupled with almost any sauce or cooking liquid.

The origin of the cereal, for it is a cereal, is not completely clear. Some plant scientists speculate that all rice species have a common ancestor going back as far as 2 million years ago to the supercontinent Pangea before it broke up.

Risi e Bisi, a regal Venetian dish traditionally offered the Doge on the feast day of St. Mark, may look like mere rice and peas, but it is much more than that.

More fanciful explanations probably arise from the fact that rice in many cultures is more than just a food, but part and parcel of a country's cultural fabric. China, where it is considered unlucky to leave even a few grains of rice uneaten at the end of a meal, is perhaps the most obvious case. The Chinese also advise young women that every grain of rice left uneaten will translate into pockmarks on the face of a future husband.

According to Chinese legend, rice was given to humans in ancient times by a variety of animals, but in particular a dog. After terrible flooding wiped out all plants and there was no food left, the dog was seen running through fields with rice seeds stuck to its tail. The people plucked the seeds, planted them, and before long hunger was no longer a problem.

Whatever its origins, rice has become a major crop around the world, even here in Missouri, whose markets include, ironically, the banks of the Nile. We're not ready to change the state motto yet, but "Have a rice day" has a certain ring to it.

Risi e Bisi

This may seem like merely a recipe for rice and peas, but it's much more than that. Though characteristically made with humble ingredients, it was considered practically regal in Venice, where it was traditionally offered to the Doge on the feast day of St. Mark. Even though it uses Arborio rice, it is much more a thick soup than a risotto. It's ready, Italian cookbook author Marcella Hazen advises, when it is just runny enough to necessitate a spoon. She also insists that it should be made only with fresh peas. But if you're looking for a reminder of Spring in the middle of Winter, frozen peas, I think, will do just fine until the birds are singing and trees are budding. This recipe is adapted from one by food writer Nicholas Day.

• 1 bag (14 ounce) frozen peas
• 4 tablespoons butter
• 2 tablespoons chopped onion
• 4 cups chicken stock
• 1 cup Arborio rice
• 1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese

Bring stock to a simmer. Meanwhile, melt butter and saute onions over medium heat until golden. Add 3 cups of stock to the sauteed onions along with the rice and a large pinch of salt. Cover and cook at low boil for about 15 minutes, stirring occasionally, until rice is tender. If too thick, thin with some of the remaining stock. Add peas and Parmesan, cook 3 minutes more, and serve in a soup bowl.