Easter breads rise to the occasion

"One a penny, two a penny, hot cross buns." That familiar refrain has to be the best song ever written about an Easter bread. In fact, it's the only one I know. Perhaps there are others, but I think it's reasonably safe to say that there is no song about the traditional Finnish Easter bread made from wheat and rye flour enriched with cream, butter, eggs, raisins and almonds and baked in a milking pail. They call it Pääsiäisleipä, a word which is hard enough to say, let alone sing.

Even if some have what to us are ungainly names, Easter breads are probably the most conventional way to celebrate the most sacred day on the Christian calendar. For example, on the Greek island of Corfu they celebrate the holiday by throwing clay pots off their balconies to connote discarding the old to make way for the new. In Haux, a French village, the whole town assembles in the main square to partake of a giant omelet.

Compared to such antics, bread may seem rather pedestrian. But Easter breads are anything but. They are typically laden with symbolism. As Betsy Oppenneer, writing in her comprehensive review of celebratory breads, points out, bread has been a sacred symbol in many cultures and religions for years and years. For example, the Christian ritual of communion involves bread. Jews make unleavened bread to commemorate the release of the children of Israel from bondage. Similarly, Muslims regard bread as a blessing and even kiss it to show their respect.

So it should not be surprising that when it comes to Easter breads, as Jennifer Day of the Chicago Tribune aptly observes, "Meaning is kneaded into every crumb." After all, the very act of bread rising mirrors Christ rising from the tomb. Easter breads are typically made with lots of eggs, which have symbolized rebirth since pagan times. Moreover, not a few Easter breads, such as Greek Tsoureki, embed hard-boiled eggs, often colored red to represent Christ's blood, right into the dough. Many others involve braided dough--typically using three strands to represent the Holy Trinity.

Easter breads come in myriad versions, ranging from Russian Kulich with its high church-like dome to the Italian Colomba in the shape of the dove of peace. But to me the best is Pasca, a Romanian bread filled with cheesecake. It's as heavenly as bread can get.

Though Easter breads come in myriad versions, perhaps Pasca, a Romanian Easter bread filled with cheesecake, is the most heavenly.Tom Harte ~ photos@semissourian.com

Romanian Easter Braid with Ricotta Cheesecake

This divine recipe is adapted from "Holiday and Celebration Bread in Five Minutes a Day" by Zoe Francois and Jeff Hertzberg

• 7/8 cup (1 cup minus 2 tablespoons) lukewarm water
• 1/2 tablespoon granulated yeast
• 1/2 tablespoon Kosher salt
• 4 eggs, divided
• 1/4 cup plus 1 tablespoon honey, divided
• 1/2 stick butter, melted
• 3 1/2 cups bread flour
• 3/4 cup whole-milk ricotta
• 1/3 cup sugar
• 1 teaspoon grated orange zest
• 1/2 teaspoon grated lemon zest
• 2 tablespoons rum
• 3/4 cup golden raisins
• 1 egg yolk
• 1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon cream, divided

Combine water, yeast, salt, 2 eggs, lightly beaten, 1/4 cup honey, and melted butter. Without kneading, mix in flour. Cover loosely and let rise for two hours. Refrigerate dough for easier handling. When cold dust top with flour and cut off one a one pound piece. Dusting with additional flour, shape and stretch dough into a ball and cut into four equal pieces. Form each piece into a ball. Roll one ball into a thin disk to fit bottom of a greased springform pan. Let remaining dough balls relax five minutes and dusting with flour shape each into a 1/2-inch thick rope 25 inches long. Braid ropes. Form braid into an even circle, stretching gently, and place around inside of pan. Cover loosely with plastic wrap and let rest 45 minutes. Whisk together ricotta, sugar, zests, rum, and remaining 2 eggs. Stir in raisins. Pour into center of pan, pushing dough against pan. Filling should not go over top of dough. Combine egg yolk and 1 tablespoon cream and brush over dough. Bake at 350 degrees for about 30 minutes until browned and filling is set. Cool slightly and remove from pan. Combine remaining tablespoon honey and remaining teaspoon cream and brush on dough. Serve warm or at room temperature.