STRICTLY BUSINESS: FOOD, DRINK AND ENTERTAINMENT AT RIVER RIDGE WINERY

When you think wine, you may have visions of France, Italy or California's Napa Valley. Today, though, a growing number of those knowledgeable about wine are discovering that some of the local labels are among the best and most-reasonably priced.

I had an opportunity to taste some of the local labels last week when the Tri State Advertising and Marketing Professionals held its monthly meeting at the River Ridge Winery, two miles north of Commerce, Mo., near the Mississippi River.

The purpose of the meeting was to install new Tri State officers. Having the meeting at River Ridge offered the perfect excuse to turn a meeting into a festive occasion.

New officers are Tracey Glenn, City of Cape Girardeau, president; Keith Whitworth, Southeast Missouri Hospital, vice-president; Ann Hayes, Southeast Missouri State University, secretary; and Marilyn Kneir, Horizon Promotional Products, treasurer.

Jerry and Joannie Smith spent more than a decade planting and harvesting grapes before they opened River Ridge Winery to the public in September 1994.

Now they have a thriving vineyard that this year will produce some 15,000 bottles of wine.

The Smiths just recently opened Cafe Fermentation, a cozy spot (the winery's old fermentation room, actually) to enjoy gourmet appetizers and meals.

The Smiths already have an impressive wine stock -- Serendipity, a dry white wine; Chardonnay, a dry white; Cynthiana, a red dry; Chambourcin, another full-bodied dry red; and two excellent dessert wines.

On July 4, they will introduce their newest wine -- Chardonnel -- to the public, and will host a July 4 wine and music festival from 2-6 p.m. Francois & Co. will perform classic and jazz. Winery guests can enjoy the music and stroll the grounds. Food will also be available.

The advertising and marketing people didn't have an opportunity to taste the Chardonnel last week. The Smiths didn't start bottling it until late in the week.

But available for sampling were the Serendipity, Chardonnay, Cynthiana and Chambourcin wines, as well as a couple of dessert wines. Wines, I learned, are rated on a scale that ranges from "Yech," to "Okay" to "Good" to "Delicious!" There are a couple more names on the rating scale, "Very Good" to "Delicious," minus the exclamation point.

Along with the wine tasting were the samplings of some gourmet foods, such as queso para freir, a fried cheese specialty, stuffed mushrooms, strawberries dipped in white chocolate and Italian panini, consisting of provolone cheese, sausage, ham and red onion.

Also available will be a special Winery Basket," containing a loaf of French bread, cheeses, herbal dressing and Esicar wurst. Visitor can enjoy a tour of the vineyards, a walk along one of the trails or just lazing around the grounds.

River Ridge Winery is situated in a century-old, remodeled, white frame house on a hilly, 80-acre farm, two miles north of Commerce on County Road 321. The winery is one of only two in Southeast Missouri.

I've known Jerry and Joannie almost since they first started planning the winery, but last week's visit to the winery was a fulfillment of a promise to visit the facility.

It won't be the last. I'm already making plans for a return visit to River Ridge Winery July 4.

Smith, a former Navy pilot and air-traffic controller, always wanted to own a family winery. Ironically, he grew up in a dry county in Arkansas.

He did his homework on the area, finding that the property and conditions of the land were almost identical to the northern area of Napa Valley in California, where more than 90 percent of the nation's wine is produced.

Today, the River Ridge vineyards cover about four acres, situated a short uphill walk from the farmhouse-turned-winery.

Growing the grapes is just the first step to making wine, Smith told the advertising group. After picking, the grapes must then be crushed. The grape juice is mixed with yeast and allowed to ferment in 55-gallon stainless steel containers, after which it is aged in white oak barrels and then in wine bottles.

The Smiths age their red wines in oak barrels for one to three years. After they are bottled, the wine is allowed to age another six months to a year.

For a dozen years, Jerry Smith lived in the farmhouse that serves as the winery.

Over the past 18 months, the Smiths have spent countless hours renovating the house for use as a winery.

The ceiling is covered with wallpaper featuring a grape design. The kitchen has been turned into a wine-tasting area. The front room is filled with goodies and gifts for the wine enthusiast.

New front porch steps greet visitors, along with the winery dog, "Lucky."

The rugged character of the house still remains. The interior door frames stand helter-skelter. There are new wood floors. Built over the old flooring, they retain its charming unevenness.

Since opening for the public, a new building has been added for crushing and bottling of the wine.

B. Ray Owen is a staff writer for the Southeast Missourian.

WANT TO GO?

To get to River Ridge Winery, turn left off Interstate 55 at Scott City to Route N, then five miles south through Commerce.

Or turn left off I-55 at Benton, six miles to Route N, then left a half mile.