Vegan baking today better than it sounds

Not so long ago, most Americans considered vegan desserts an oxymoron.

But thanks to new and better ingredients, as well as improved availability, the last decade has seen a revolution in the world of egg- and dairy-free baking.

"In the old days, you'd think of vegan baking as whole-wheat flour and fruit-based sweeteners and grains, sort of like a reflection of vegan food from the '70s," said Colleen Holland, associate publisher of VegNews magazine.

"Now it's petits fours. It's brownies. It's fudge. And you can't even tell the difference from the mainstream versions."

What's changed? For starters, interest. Healthy eating trends have led more people to investigate vegetarian and vegan foods. Vegetarian Times magazine, for example, says half its readers aren't vegetarian.

As a result, vegan bakeries have opened around the country, and vegan cookbooks and Web sites are more prolific, offering a wealth of resources to bakers who prefer to eliminate animal products -- including eggs and milk -- from their diet for ethical or health reasons.

Vegans also have benefited from tremendous growth in the organic and natural foods industry. Organic foods aren't necessarily vegan, but strong interest in them has fostered a marketplace that allowed vegan products to flourish.

Greater attention to food allergies has helped, too. Awareness of egg and dairy sensitivities has prompted many families to seek out alternatives, efforts that sometimes turned into businesses.

As of last year, the vegetarian food industry is worth about $1.2 billion, more than double what it was in 2002, according to Chicago-based market research firm Mintel International Group.

"People don't want to suffer for their choices," said Lee Busch, founder and owner of Somerville, Mass.-based Goodbaker, which sells vegan baking mixes. "So vegan products have gotten a lot better in terms of taste."