Trying something new at Hickory House

Let me tell you about one of my favorite burgers in town. Hickory House Restaurant at 2259 E. Jackson Blvd. in Jackson. It is home to one of the best mushroom Swiss burger moments in my lifetime. In fact, three years ago today I introduced my son to his first Hickory House mushroom and Swiss burger. I really can't describe it. Each bite was an experience. When you know you know, right? The first bite had that "I would consider meeting a stranger alone in a dark alley after midnight for another bite of this burger" kind of euphoria, so it is no surprise I had a tough time ordering something new for the purpose of writing this article.

Owners Ron and Bobbie Nevils describe their restaurant as being like a trip to "Grandma's house" and pride themselves on serving up a variety of made-from-scratch home-cooked dishes. A quick look at their menu proves they are prepared to fill your belly any time of day -- breakfast, lunch, or dinner. Just like Grandma's house.

When I arrived on Saturday afternoon, everything on the menu looked delicious. I knew a burger would be a solid and satisfying choice, but I resisted ordering one. Then, I considered just stopping by the following morning to try the chicken-fried steak and eggs breakfast. Eventually, the word "brisket" caught my eye. It was under the heading of "Open-Faced Sandwich Platters" and read simply "Beef Brisket."

Hickory house mushroom swiss burger.Submitted by Mary Ann Castillo

To some, eating brisket in Texas is akin to eating the perfect steak elsewhere -- it's practically blasphemous to add condiments to the meat. In fact, the first time I had brisket in Texas I didn't even get a plate. It was served on butcher paper with a single slice of white bread on the side and a garnish of raw sliced onions and pickles. I was confused by the bread, pickles and onion. Was I supposed to make a sandwich? Why weren't there any fries? My first inclination was to douse the meat with sauce, but I was encouraged to savor the meat on its own before adding anything, and that was the right choice. The rich, smoky, tender meat was melt-in-your mouth perfect. Why am I telling you this? Because, according to the menu, Hickory House serves their open-faced brisket on two slices of Texas toast and slathered in brown gravy. I'd never heard of such a thing. I wondered if it was a Midwest concoction. I decided it had to be my selection for the day and placed my order.

My plate arrived a short while later. It was a large portion and I knew I would have leftovers. Just as described, the brisket was generously covered in brown gravy atop two thick slices of Texas toast. I grabbed my knife and fork and dove in. I decided to sample the brisket with no condiments, like I was taught, and used my fork to reveal the layer of brisket beneath the gravy. The meat was unbelievably tender, juicy, and full of flavor. The brisket easily passed muster and I was ready to try the open-faced sandwich, gravy and all. I carefully brought a forkful of gravy-smothered brisket and Texas toast to my lips. As the rich flavors mingled in my mouth, I wondered if maybe there really was a grandma hiding in the kitchen and whipping up meals while watching "The Young & the Restless." I ate some of my mashed potatoes and macaroni and cheese, but before I knew it, I was stuffed. After learning the owner was formally a butcher, it all made sense. They know a thing or two about meat at Hickory House. I was in good hands from the start.

Hickory House burger patty.Submitted by Mary Ann Castillo

If you are looking for a home-cooked meal without worrying about a hot kitchen, give Hickory House a try. I will definitely order the open-faced brisket sandwich again and, at some point, I will try their brisket platter with no sauce but, for now, I have my sights set on a return visit for their chicken-fried steak and eggs breakfast.

By the way, I think I may have run into grandpa on the way to my car and he left me with the quote of the day, "I like my weather like I like my women -- hot."