Ski resort is in virtual isolation

CRESTED BUTTE, Colo. -- The towering, pyramid-shaped rock peak of Crested Butte Mountain, cradling skiable avalanche chutes, is more than a stunning backdrop for the historic facades of Elk Avenue.

It's a reminder that Crested Butte, for all its charm and refined amenities, is just as much about thrill-seekers on skis, snowboards, snowmobiles -- and during summer -- mountain bikes and kayaks.

That combination attracted former women's world extreme-skiing champion Kim Reichhelm, who runs a ski adventure tour company here.

"The skiing is great, and what makes the community so unique is really friendly people who are so dedicated to preserving open spaces -- not letting developers take away the essence of what the town's all about," Reichhelm says.

Extreme skiers easily can wear themselves out on Crested Butte Mountain's intense lift-serviced runs, which carry names like Dead Bob's Chute and Body Bag. Then there's the backcountry terrain across four wilderness areas, including the open slopes surrounding the Irwin Lodge, a rustic mountainside cabin accessible only by snowmobile or snow tractor in winter.

Isolation is atttraction

The town, all but encircled by 12,000 to 14,000-foot, snowcapped peaks, is slightly out of the way. State Route 135 from Gunnison, which runs mostly along the East River past ranch land and rocky hillsides speckled with elk and mountain goats, is the only paved road in. It's about a 30-minute drive from the Gunnison airport -- or about three hours through the mountains from Colorado Springs and more than four hours from Denver.

But the relative isolation is part of the attraction, especially for those seeking to avoid crowded slopes and long lift lines.

"You feel far removed from everything, which is kind of how you'd romanticize Colorado and the Rockies," says resident Scott Nelson, 28, an avid skier who sampled much of the Rockies before deciding his adopted hometown. "It's like a mythical paradise deep in the mountains, and the fact that it's in a box canyon basically insures it will always be like that."

For Nelson, paradise meant not just challenging skiing and splendid scenery, but also a sense of community and more architectural character than the contrived rows of condos and hotels which have come to define so many resorts.

With streets lit by antique lamps and turn-of-the-century buildings painted to enhance Victorian detail, the old mining town forms Colorado's largest historic district.

Development has been restricted in the town proper. But it's relatively easy to find lodging at one of the more-modern hotels or condominiums at the base of the ski area, about three miles up a hillside road. A free bus system, which runs frequently and accommodates ski equipment, ensures easy access between the old town and the mountain resort.

"What really makes Crested Butte stand apart from other resorts is it has some of the steepest, most technical skiing in the country, not just wide open bowls where you can get away with being a cliff-jumping yahoo," Reichhelm says. "Crested Butte has so many tight nooks and crannies that if you're going to catch air, you have to be in control when you land or you're going to be in trouble."

Less-experienced skiers have no shortage of slopes they can handle, and long lines at any lift are rare.

Taking the day off from the slopes at Crested Butte Mountain is by no means a recipe for boredom.

Area ranches run all-season horseback riding. A local recreation center includes an ice rink and cross-country ski trails. And snowmobile rentals are available from the base of a mountain pass -- which is under several feet of snow in winter -- to the Irwin Lodge.

The lodge was built just above a mountaintop lake and the site of the town of Irwin, a viable silver-mining town until about 1885. It includes a restaurant, bar and rooms available for overnight stay. The rooms do not have telephones. It's a genuine, mountain getaway.

Snow tractors bring guests for backcountry skiing. Day tours of other backcountry areas are available as well.

"Within our reach we have limitless back country and it seems like a lot of people who live here do that as much as skiing" the resort, Reichhelm says.

Even off the slopes, life here is appetizing. Both the town and resort area offer diverse and plentiful dining options, including Continental cuisine, big game, French, Swiss, Italian, Southern, Mexican, seafood and even sushi. Night spots range from casual bars with pool tables and a small stage for live music to a Western tavern, a brew pub, or a more sophisticated wine bar.

Crested Butte also hosts music, art and film festivals.