Pavement Ends: A guide to the River-to-River Trail in Illinois

Serious backpackers dream of completing the "Triple Crown" of long-distance hikes: The Appalachian Trail, Pacific Crest Trail and Continental Divide Trail, each more than 2,000 miles long.

We don't have anything quite that grueling in our neck of the woods, although the Ozark Trail in Missouri and the River-to-River Trail in Illinois are nothing to sneeze at. Backpackers often practice on these regional trails before tackling more serious hikes.

Traditionally, thru-hikers on the River-to-River Trail scoop up a vial of water from the Ohio River and then drop it into the Mississippi River (or vice versa) after completing their 150-plus mile trek across Southern Illinois.

Luckily, for those of us not interested in spending weeks at a time in the wilderness, the River-to-River Trail offers convenient access points for short day hikes. The trail hits many of the highlights of the Shawnee National Forest as well as two state parks.

High Knob (Photo by James Baughn)

The "R2R" trail is marked with a blue "i" inside a white diamond. Since markers are sometimes lost or destroyed, good maps are a must. Fortunately, detailed maps can be downloaded from the Shawnee National Forest website. A guidebook is also available from the River-to-River Trail Society.

Below is a summary of some of the notable features along the River-to-River Trail, from west to east.

__Grand Tower:__ The trail begins at Devil's Backbone Park on the Mississippi River in Grand Tower. At the park, a pipeline suspension bridge -- billed as the world's longest when constructed -- runs above a curious rock outcrop. From Grand Tower, the R2R follows levee roads to the south. Thanks to a change in the course of the river, the trail briefly enters a portion of Missouri that is on the "wrong" side of the river.

__LaRue/Pine Hills:__ One of the most dramatic scenes in Illinois is the curve along the road leading to LaRue/Pine Hills: It's just another levee road until a sharp curve brings the towering bluffs of the Pine Hills into view. The R2R also follows this road as it leads to the bluffs.

__Two wilderness areas:__ After climbing to the top of bluffs, the trail passes through the Clear Springs Wilderness and then the Bald Knob Wilderness. This segment is generally considered the most remote and difficult part of the R2R. On the opposite side of the wilderness areas, the trail meets the road to Bald Knob Cross and then heads to Alto Pass.

__Cedar Lake:__ From Alto Pass, the R2R proceeds to manmade Cedar Lake. It crosses a narrow rocky causeway that separates the main lake from Little Cedar Lake. Climbing into the hills, the trail provides views of the lake before crossing Highway 51 at Makanda.

Millstone Lake (Photo by James Baughn)

__Giant City State Park:__ Outside Makanda, the trail skirts Giant City State Park, following bluffs that most visitors don't see. It then passes near the famous lodge and restaurant and heads eastward through Crab Orchard National Wildlife Refuge.

__Panther Den:__ The trail then comes to the Panther Den, a labyrinth of crevices, passageways and hidden rooms. These crazy formations are just as "giant" as the rocks at Giant City.

__Ferne Clyffe State Park:__ By following local roads, the R2R crosses Interstate 57 and then shortly reaches Bork's Waterfall, an impressive falls at the outskirts of Ferne Clyffe State Park. The trail soon enters the main state park, following a circuitous route to pass over and under a large natural arch.

__Dutchman Lake:__ After leaving the park, the trail heads to Dutchman Lake and crosses the lake's dam, providing excellent photo opportunities, especially at sunset. A spur trail leading along the north shore of the lake criss-crosses several small canyons.

__Odum Tract Natural Area:__ Passing under Interstate 24, the trail then skirts around Odum Tract Natural Area, featuring a surprisingly long glade (it's necessary to bushwhack a short distance to reach the glade). Continuing east, the R2R intersects the Tunnel Hill State Trail.

__Max Creek:__ Next, the trail joins Highway 45 briefly before turning off for the Max Creek area. This is a scenic canyon that is home to the rumored "Max Creek Vortex" -- a place where weird things are supposed to happen, although reports are sketchy.

__Cedar Creek:__ Soon the trail reaches another canyonland along Cedar Creek. It passes near a free-standing sandstone arch, a peculiar formation that more closely resembles something in Utah rather than Illinois.

__Cove Hollow:__ The canyons continue as the trail marches eastward. A branch of the R2R runs through Cove Hollow along the base of tall bluffs. This area is nicknamed "The Promised Land" by rock climbers.

__Millstone Lake:__ After passing under railroad tracks via a tunnel, the trail reaches Millstone Lake. This reservoir has overflowed multiple times in recent years, creating a badlands of rock outcrops at the emergency spillway.

__Hayes Creek:__ As the R2R winds eastward toward Eddyville, it enters an area popular with horseback riders. The canyons along Hayes Creek and its tributaries feature multiple waterfalls and plunge pools.

__Lusk Creek Wilderness:__ Beyond Eddyville, the trail enters Lusk Creek Wilderness. The horseback riding community has given colorful names to the landmarks along the trail: Bootleggers Crossing, Bowed Tree Crossing, Owl Bluff and Dinner Table Rock.

__One Horse Gap:__ Meandering to the east, the R2R eventually reaches another landmark with a curious name: One Horse Gap. It's a very appropriate label, as the trail traverses a bluff line using a narrow crevice suitable for only one horse -- or hiker -- at a time.

__Garden of the Gods:__ The trail then veers to the north to approach Garden of the Gods. This recreation area is the crown jewel of the Shawnee National Forest, so it's no surprise that the R2R would be routed through it. Camel Rock is the most famous landmark here, but the trail also passes a feature that is sometimes overlooked by visitors: A large natural arch above the Garden of the Gods entrance road.

__High Knob:__ Next up is High Knob, an isolated summit surrounded by bluffs offering panoramic views. The knob is a jumping-off point for side trails leading to nearby canyons.

__Elizabethtown:__ To the east of High Knob, the R2R trail forks, offering two choices for reaching the Ohio River. The "old" route continues east, terminating at a place called Battery Rock above the river. The "new" fork turns south, passing the site of Lee Mine, an area where fluorite was mined. After following a meandering route, the new trail eventually ends at Elizabethtown, a quaint riverside hamlet.