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FeaturesFebruary 11, 2004

WASHINGTON -- We take for granted that certain foods can help us get through the cold and flu season; thoughts turn to those old favorites often grouped now as comfort foods. There are indeed foods that help beat colds and flu, that do comfort and boost long-term health, says the American Institute for Cancer Research...

The Associated Press

WASHINGTON -- We take for granted that certain foods can help us get through the cold and flu season; thoughts turn to those old favorites often grouped now as comfort foods.

There are indeed foods that help beat colds and flu, that do comfort and boost long-term health, says the American Institute for Cancer Research.

To help achieve those desirable goals, the AICR has developed new, healthful versions of both old-fashioned and contemporary comfort foods that are popular during the cold and flu season.

"The old-fashioned kind of chicken soup we fondly remember our mothers and grandmothers making," says Melanie Polk, AICR's director of nutrition education, "has been shown to be a good way to break up the congestion of a head cold.

"Unfortunately, many commercially prepared chicken soups are high in fat and sodium, while the fat-free, reduced-sodium versions generally lack flavor. And many homemade chicken soups often rely on highly saturated chicken fat to achieve a satisfying taste." So AICR has developed a healthier, but still richly flavored, chicken soup.

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The following chicken soup uses three key steps -- sauteing, cooking and simmering -- to achieve the full-bodied flavor associated with the chicken soup of our childhood, using either a stovetop method or a slow cooker.

Note: The hurried cook can skip the saute and cooking steps, and simply put all the ingredients in a large pot or slow cooker to simmer until tender and soft. This method cuts down on the time involved, but will not develop as much flavor.

Old-Fashioned Chicken Soup

Canola oil spray

2 skinless chicken breasts or 2 drumsticks (with bones), rinsed and dried

1 scrubbed turnip, cut into chunks

1 scrubbed parsnip, cut into chunks

1 scrubbed carrot, cut into chunks

1 medium onion (peeled), cut in half

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6 to 8 whole peppercorns

4 to 6 whole cloves

2 peeled cloves garlic (or more, as desired)

1 teaspoon fresh (or 1/2 teaspoon dried) thyme, marjoram, or tarragon

1 large bay leaf

6 cups (about) fat-free, reduced-sodium chicken broth

Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

On a cutting board or other flat surface, mash garlic with the flat side of a large knife. Let garlic stand about 15 minutes while moving on to the next two steps.

Coat the bottom of a large saucepan with canola oil spray. Heat pan over high heat until hot. Add turnip, parsnip, carrot and onion. Saute, stirring occasionally, until vegetables are lightly browned, adjusting heat as necessary to prevent burning. With a slotted spoon, transfer vegetables to a bowl or dish and set aside.

Re-spray the bottom of the pan with canola oil. Heat on medium-high heat until hot. Add chicken and saute, turning occasionally, until lightly browned. Cover the pan, reduce heat to low and cook about 10 minutes.

If making the soup stovetop, return vegetables to the pan. Add peppercorns, cloves, garlic, fresh or dried herb, bay leaf, a generous pinch of salt and enough broth to cover contents by about 2 inches. Cover the pan, bring mixture to a boil, remove lid and immediately reduce heat to a simmer.

If using a slow cooker, transfer vegetables and chicken to the cooker. Add the seasonings and enough broth to cover contents by about 2 inches. Cover and cook on high to bring liquid to a boil, then lower heat so soup cooks at a simmer.

(With either cooking method, do not allow soup to boil, which produces a "muddy" flavor and cloudy liquid.)

While the soup is simmering, occasionally skim off the foam that accumulates on top of the broth. Cook soup, adjusting the heat so broth continues to simmer until chicken is tender and almost falling away from the bone, about 2 hours. (Slow cookers may require more time.) While the soup simmers, add more broth if the liquid no longer covers the chicken and vegetables.

When the chicken is tender and soft, remove it with a slotted spoon to a large, flat baking dish. While chicken is cooling, strain broth through a large colander into a large pot. Discard vegetables and seasonings. Retain any loose pieces of chicken and return them to the soup. When chicken is cool enough to handle comfortably, use fingers or a knife to pull meat away from the bones. Discard bones. Return chicken to the soup.

Heat soup until hot. Taste and adjust seasoning, adding more herbs, salt and freshly ground black pepper, if needed. If desired, cooked noodles or rice can be added to the soup. (Asian dried rice noodles only need soaking in hot water for a few minutes to reach tenderness.)

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