Gardens provide quiet beauty in Jamaica's Blue Mountains

ST. PETER, Jamaica -- From pricey resorts to exclusive cruises, cheap is not a word that applies to a typical vacation in Jamaica. For those willing to put in a little time and effort, however, many of the island's most rewarding experiences can be had for free.

Paramount among these is a trip to Cinchona Gardens, a botanic garden set high in the lush Blue Mountains, which rise steeply from the island's southeastern coast. Though currently suffering from neglect, Cinchona remains one of Jamaica's most exquisite -- and least known -- spots.

Creating a botanic garden 5,000 feet up in an isolated, barely accessible area may seem rather impractical, but Cinchona was originally devised for the utilitarian purpose of growing cinchona trees, the source of quinine, an extract used to fight malaria. Cinchona can only be grown in tropical highlands.

In 1868, hoping to capitalize on the export of quinine, the Jamaican government established Cinchona, a 600-acre tract of land acquired to grow 40 acres of cinchona trees and an Assam tea plantation. Plans were also made to create botanic gardens, modeled after formal European gardens such as England's Royal Botanic Garden, Kew.

The tea and cinchona crops never reached the government's economic expectations and were abandoned within 10 years, but in its heyday the gardens gained a certain renown for exotic flowers, including Cymbidium orchids, Easter lilies, impatiens and hybrid roses. Today, many of the more delicate species have died out but the garden is still a botanist's dream.

Pick up refreshments

First, though, one has to get there. If attempting the trip to Cinchona, a stop at Brother Wolf's is well-advised -- both to pick up refreshments and greet the owner. The last grocery store before the turnoff for the gardens, it -- along with its Rastafarian owner -- is also a well-known landmark to those familiar with the area.

Having stocked up at Wolf's, there is nothing to do but go up, either on foot or in a four-wheel drive vehicle (inexperienced drivers need not apply). Though it is only 6.6 miles to the gardens from Wolf's store, the road's steepness and terribly poor upkeep make for a lengthy, teeth-rattling trip. The necessarily slow pace, however, enables one to enjoy the increasingly beautiful views of the surrounding valleys -- views that pale in comparison to the views from Cinchona proper.

Designed by gardener

Designed in 1874 by Kew gardener William Nock -- who was also involved in the cinchona and assam plantations' development -- the gardens are stocked with an extraordinary variety of botanical species from around the world. From eucalyptus and rubber trees to cork oaks and lilies, nearly every continent is represented. Some of the trees still have identifying labels, but mostly it is a giant guessing game. Come equipped with a good field guide, such as The Botanic Gardens of Jamaica (1966, Andre Deutsch Limited) by Alan Eyre.

"Nock was obviously very much in love with the place, having created this jewel against many odds," says Andreas Oberli, the National Arboretum Foundation's project director at Hope Gardens in Kingston.

When Oberli, then a photographer, discovered the gardens in 1982, it was in ruins, the main cottage vandalized, the vegetation devastated by a recent hurricane. Cinchona was falling apart, and, due to its isolation and lack of foot traffic, hardly a priority for the government.

After Oberli learned the land had been earmarked to be developed for use as a private country club, he organized a lobbying group, the result of which was four years' funding for the gardens and a new job for himself as Cinchona project manager.

"The four years at Cinchona were, in a way, the best years in Jamaica for me," says the Swiss-born Oberli, who still regularly visits the gardens.

His fondness for Cinchona is certainly influenced by its beauty. From the start, he was struck by "the very private nature of the gardens," and his voice is almost reverent when describing a Cinchona sunrise or full-moon night, when the "entire garden is all shades of blue."

But much of Oberli's love for the gardens stems from the close relationships he established with the local people, whom he describes as "a reserved but very, very kind and sweet people, and very hardworking."

This work ethic came in handy during Oberli's extensive restoration effort. The first year was spent repairing trails and buildings, clearing and maintaining access roads and fixing the water supply. After such basic repairs had been made, he and his workers took on more expansive projects, such as the creation of a cricket field that also functions as a helicopter landing pad for easy access.

In addition to utilitarian work, Oberli was able to revive some of the more delicate aspects of Cinchona through the creation of formal flower gardens and stone walls. His progress is particularly impressive given that, when he first arrived, "workers were cutting the lawn on their knees, with machetes."