Fry bread at Fuel Bar + Taco: Honoring Native American Heritage Month through food

The only thing I enjoy more than good food is good food with a story. A powerful story.

This week as I returned to the familiar grounds of Fuel Bar + Taco in Jackson (634 W. Main St.), I found myself on a culinary journey that led to an emotional and educational undertaking beyond my expectations.

The wheels were set in motion several weeks ago when I stumbled across members of an online foodie group discussing their love of Navajo tacos, specifically, fry bread. Curiosity led me to Google. Who saw that coming? I Google everything. I quickly learned fry bread is a traditional Native American food and not something I was likely to find in Southeast Missouri. I mentally added fry bread to my epicurean wish list and moved along.

Then, six days ago, as I was mindlessly scrolling my Instagram feed, I came across a post on the"fueljackson" page alerting customers to a 'limited time only' item: Bison on fry bread. Bison tacos would be on the Fuel menu through the end of November in honor of Native American Heritage Month. "You must be kidding me," I thought. I penciled in "lunch @ Fuel" on my calendar and began researching the origins of fry bread.

This is where I became emotional. I am Hispanic. I have been told I have Native American ancestry but no specifics. I have not been too concerned with the details ... until recently. Earlier this month I pushed my reservations aside and submitted to genealogical DNA testing. As I researched fry bread, I received a notification on my cell phone: My sample was in queue for DNA extraction. I wondered what percentage Native American I might be. What if I had no Native American ancestry? Could that be possible? I was nervously excited about the DNA results AND the opportunity to try a food that could possibly be a part of my heritage.

Bison is tender, rich, and uniquely flavorful.Submitted by Mary Ann Castillo

My research continued and I discovered the documentary"The Long Walk: Tears of the Navajo" on YouTube. I attended high school in a town where most of the community had Native American roots in their family trees, yet I had never heard this story. Maybe I just wasn't paying attention that day in class. My heart was heavy as I listened and learned. I later learned fry bread is controversial in Native American communities. For some, fry bread represents pain, poverty and suffering. For others, it is a reminder of strength, perseverance and the will to survive. Many lives were lost on The Long Walk, but the Navajo and Mescalero Apache refused to be conquered. At that point it occurred to me the DNA results did not matter. As Americans, this is our history. The culture, stories and contributions of indigenous people should be shared, preserved and honored. Fry bread represented an opportunity for me to connect with generations past by experiencing their food.

When I finally made it to Fuel, I had the opportunity to speak to Chef James Palen about his choice to feature the bison taco during Native American Heritage Month. He had a personal motivation: he is 1/4 Native American. His maternal grandmother is 100% Native American and the family recipe used for his fry bread has been passed down from generation to generation for over a hundred years.

Fry bread is often served plain or with toppings ranging from the sweet to the savory. Chef Palen opted for a savory route that included bison topped with a mixture of corn, beans, cilantro and caramelized onion. I was there for the fry bread, but the bison caught my attention. It was tender and had a rich and distinctive flavor. Some describe it as having a sweeter flavor than beef, but I'm not sure sweet is the word I would choose. It does have a lighter taste, which I enjoyed. The corn/bean/cilantro/onion added a satisfying mixture of fresh flavors one might expect from a traditional taco. Then came the fry bread. It was thick, soft and fluffy with that greasy crispness that comes from deep frying anything. It was indulgent and delicious and crumbled in my mouth with each bite. I smiled. I wondered what Chef Palen's ancestors would think if they knew not only is he free to live wherever he wants, but he also owns a restaurant where he is honoring their legacy by sharing the flavors of the past. I imagine they would have been pleased. I was, and I believe you will be too.