Fresh produce in salad brings spring to table

CONCORD, N.H. -- The trouble with spring is it's a good reminder of everything we can't have.

As the weather warms and garden catalogs crowd the mailbox, heads fill quickly with dreamy thoughts of fresh vegetables piled high in farmers' markets.

Too bad, because the produce has yet to catch up with these fantasies. With even early harvest fruits and vegetables still well off, vegetarians need to make do with what they can find. That doesn't mean resorting to a can opener or the freezer section.

The trick to fresh, and refreshing, vegetables this time of year is to work with what is available and supplement it with produce that packs punch when preserved or stored.

A great place to start is fresh greens. Good-quality greens, from peppery mesclun mixes to sweet bunches of spinach or kale, can be found in most grocers year-round.

To liven up the greens with a burst of summer flavor, grab a jar of sun-dried tomatoes packed in olive oil, a few cloves of garlic and a few tablespoons of capers, those small, olive-like delicacies that have a salty bite.

Saute the greens in a bit of olive oil until just wilted. Dice the tomatoes and add them to the greens along with the garlic and capers. Saute another few minutes, then toss with pasta.

Fresh herbs are another way to add the taste of a warmer season to your dishes. Most grocers now stock good-quality fresh herbs all year, ranging from parsley to thyme and sage to lavender

Use whatever fresh herbs are available to make original versions of pestos, to give pizzazz to pasta and steamed vegetables.

Traditional pesto recipes call for basil, olive oil, garlic, pine nuts and Parmesan cheese. Can't find basil yet? Try a combination of dill and parsley. Don't eat dairy? Soy Parmesan works fine, too.

To make pesto, combine in a food processor or blender all the ingredients (in a roughly 2-to-1 ratio of herbs to other items) except the oil. Drizzle in 1 tablespoon of olive oil and pulse-chop. Continue adding oil and pulsing until the mixture is a thick paste.

To give pesto depth of flavor, no matter what time of year you make it, lightly toast the pine nuts before grinding them. To toast, toss them in a dry skillet over medium heat for several minutes, or until they begin to brown. Stir frequently.

For other inspired ideas for using seasonal produce, turn to Ursula Ferrigno's "Gusto Italiano: Quick and Simple Vegetarian Cooking" (Bay Books, 1999, $32).

In her arugula and fig salad, Ferrigno relies on the sturdy, peppery taste of one of the earliest spring greens to balance the sweetness of plump figs.

If fresh figs are hard to find, use dried. Soak them in warm water for 30 minutes, or until tender throughout. They won't look as attractive as fresh, but the taste will make up for their appearance.

Also, try sprinkling toasted pine nuts on the salad just before serving. Alternatively, for a culture clash, give the salad an Asian twist and sprinkle it with lightly toasted sesame seeds.

Arugula and Fig Salad

(Preparation 10 minutes)

8 ounces arugula leaves

4 1/2 ounces fresh figs, quartered

1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice

2 or 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Wash the arugula well and tear it into bite-sized pieces. Dry it well on paper towels or with a salad spinner. Oil-based dressings won't stick to wet leaves.

Toss the quartered figs with the leaves. In a small bowl, whisk together the lemon juice, olive oil, salt and pepper. Toss the dressing with the salad. Serve immediately.

Makes 4 servings.

Good, meaty tomatoes are a rarity this time of year, but those hankering for a taste of a beefsteak can make do with cherry tomatoes. These are easy to find and still pack plenty of juicy flavor.

Tomato, Mint and Red Onion Salad

(Preparation 25 minutes)

30 firm, bright red cherry tomatoes

1/2 small red onion, peeled and finely chopped

Handful of fresh mint, finely chopped

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

Juice of 1 lemon

Zest of 1 lemon, finely chopped

Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Slice the tomatoes in half and arrange on a large plate or shallow bowl. Sprinkle the onion and mint over the tomatoes, then drizzle with olive oil and lemon juice.

Sprinkle the lemon zest on top of the salad, and season with salt and pepper. Allow the salad to marinate for 20 minutes before serving.

Makes 4 servings.