I had it on very good authority that Tuesdays in Perryville, Missouri, were special for one reason: homemade chicken and dumplings at Incredible Edibles. Fall and the cooler weather had made this the perfect time to test that theory. The leaves were showing their color and falling in buckets across the road. The time had changed, and the world seemed to be moving slower and breathing a sigh of relief. I adore fall.
When I stepped into Incredible Edibles, I was struck by the attention to detail I encountered. What appeared to be live edge cedar slabs were everywhere, whimsical and in their natural asymmetrical forms, lining a beam in the ceiling, framing doors and serving as an edging around the counter. White walls balanced the intricate wood and allowed it to take center stage. Rustic wood covered the trash bin, disguising it and making it look like a potato bin in Grandma's kitchen. The implicit invitation immediately fed my soul with a cozy comfort that was a precursor of what was to come.
True to my source's word, Chicken and Dumplings were on the menu, along with something called a Rueben Brat. Two things I like very much mashed into one, a definite must try. I ordered at the register, grabbed a bag of homemade peanut brittle, paid and sat down by the window. Horizontal beams of light were falling across me through the blinds, and I just felt at peace with the world.
Until I realized how hungry I was, so I broke into the peanut brittle while I waited. I didn't have to wait long, but I did have to try the brittle for this article anyway, soooo .... just one little piece. Crunchy, buttery, full of deep caramel overtones, the vehicle for the star -- nuts -- was delicious. It was crunchy until I continued to chew, and then it developed a hard stickiness that I enjoyed. The next bite got a skin-on peanut, and the flavor exploded with salt and rich nuttiness. Although I don't eat it often, I enjoy a good peanut brittle. Nothing can compare to homemade, and this brittle was worth the drive.
The hot food came out, and my goodness, the prices here are extremely reasonable. A big cup of chicken and dumplings, a bag of chips, and a brat filled a plate. Originally, I came for the dumplings, so I tried a spoonful of that first. I take notes of my first impressions, and this is what I wrote about the dumplings while I chewed: "Instant pop of rich, deep chicken flavor with perfect saltiness. Silky, stick-to-your ribs broth, warm and filling, halfway between soup and gravy." The chicken base for this dish was so solid and spot-on. The dumplings were traditional rolled dumplings, made fresh that morning. What I liked most about them is that they weren't flavorless, they weren't gummy, and each square was small enough to get on my spoon without performing an impossible balancing act, which I very much appreciated.
Then I tried the Rueben Brat. I studied it first, to try to see what was going on. The browned brat was on a hoagie bun that had been buttered and pan-toasted to get that wonderful crispy golden-brown coating. The brat was sitting on a generous dollop of Thousand Island dressing and topped with browned sauerkraut. I found out later that the sauerkraut is cooked in the pan with the brat while it is browning, so it picks up those wonderful meaty brown bits (fond) in the bottom of the pan and caramelizes into something mild and wonderful. That first bite made me note, "Brat is genius." Here are two dishes, Reubens and brats, that I would have never have had the imagination to put together, and it worked. It worked so well that I was soon three bites in, intrigued and happy, wondering how this would taste with that homemade sauerkraut I had fermenting in my kitchen. I can't wait to try.
The two ladies I encountered here were just as warm and welcoming as their dining room. The food was hot, filling, comforting, and most importantly, just plain good. I will return again, maybe on a Wednesday to try those tacos that were being asked about at the counter. If they're good enough to bring people back to ask for them, I bet they're just as good as the dumplings. Incredible indeed.
Incredible Edibles is located at 118 E. Sainte Marie St. in Perryville.
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