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FoodApril 23, 2020

Discover Mario and Angela's Italian Cucina's massive 22-inch Philly cheesesteak stromboli, a meaty delight surpassing expectations. Perfect for those craving authentic Italian comfort food.

The 22-inch Philly Cheesesteak Stromboli from Mario and Angela's Italian Cucina, a lengthy love letter to the Italian pie.
The 22-inch Philly Cheesesteak Stromboli from Mario and Angela's Italian Cucina, a lengthy love letter to the Italian pie.Submitted by Rebecca LaClair

I have been forced to search out new places for carry-out in the wake of current events. I haven't really wanted to leave my county, and that has limited me in ways that I really loathe. I will be so glad when I can roam afar again, but for this week, I did find a meaty gem that I have driven by many times. This time, I stopped, in the drive-thru at least, and I'm so glad that I did.

Mario and Angela's Italian Cucina (kitchen, for those of us who are Italian impaired) sits at 1740 Broadway in Cape Girardeau, where I used to get Taco Bell when I was a fresh-faced student. Don't do the math. I just aged myself horribly. But I am, in some ways, loving these takeout reviews, because the food is literally having to speak for itself. I don't get to see the inside of the building, make judgments on the decor, or check out the bathroom for cleanliness or nifty art. I didn't get to see the inside of Mario and Angela's, but I got up close and personal with the food made there.

First of all, after we picked up the food, it was a long drive home. It felt like the longest. With two pizza boxes balanced on my lap, I was unavoidably assaulted by the succulent smells of toasty pizza crust, saucy meat, and a wonderful undertone of garlic. When we finally arrived at home, I placed the boxes on the table and opened them, slowly. Think opening the Ark of the Covenant via Indiana Jones in "Raiders of the Lost Ark," that slowly. Instead of a glowing light hitting my face, warm steamy air tinged with oregano filled my kitchen, and that's when my mouth dropped open. "Holy crap!" I said, or something like that. "I have to go get the ruler!"

I had ordered a Philly cheesesteak stromboli. The stromboli was the monstrosity that had me gaping, and I measured it to be 22 inches long: nearly two feet of meat, peppers and cheese, rolled into a beautiful golden-brown crust that was slashed boldly to allow the release of steam and let the viewer see the lovely cheesy filling inside. For reference, my arm is 21 inches long from shoulder to wrist. This thing was literally longer than my arm.

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But how did it taste? The stromboli made the most of every inch. The stuffing was full of mozzarella cheese and shot through with sauteed-until-tender green and red peppers and onions. The main star in the massive creation was the steak, small and tender paper-thin shavings that melted in my mouth. There was an overall meatiness to the pie, a richness and a comforting spice that somehow felt like a Philly cheesesteak but was steeped with traditional tomato-based Italian flavor. It was so good, I found myself wishing I could eat more, but I was just too full. I did get to enjoy it for another meal though, so that was a saving grace.

A mathematically perfect balance of bread and cheese, the Home Made Cheesy Breadsticks from Mario and Angela's Italian Cucina.
A mathematically perfect balance of bread and cheese, the Home Made Cheesy Breadsticks from Mario and Angela's Italian Cucina.Submitted by Rebecca LaClair

I'm not sure if the Philly cheesesteak filling is available all the time. I noticed it as a special on Mario and Angela's Facebook page, which you should really check out. The owners have quite the entertaining personality and will almost certainly make you smile. Anyway, ask them about the Philly cheesesteak filling when you call to order. If it's not available, I'm sure the other filling choices are as carefully created and lovingly cooked.

We also ordered 14" Home Made Cheesy Breadsticks. I cannot say enough good things about these breadsticks, so let me just say this: These are the best breadsticks I have had in recent memory. Made just like a 14" round pizza, the pizza dough is covered with mozzarella and Parmesan cheese, obviously visible green spices, and there's garlic in there, too. So much garlic, but it is so incredibly right. Hot and chewy, with a cheese-to-bread ratio like the mathematically perfect golden mean, I ate these until I ached and I regret nothing.

Our local business are doing their absolute best to balance safety and survival, to keep our lives and theirs as close to normal as possible. Mario and Angela's is clearly a place full of fun, comfort and the desire to satisfy people with hearty portions of Italian fare. Give them a try, and make sure to measure that stromboli. You won't believe for how long it goes on.

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