Dining ancient-Roman style offers unusual entree list

ROME -- Steps from the Colosseum, where all manner of beast once supped on humans, humans may now sup on all manner of beast, at an odd restaurant that reconstructs the ancient Roman dining experience within walking distance of the empire's ruins.

While today's Rome is experiencing a boom in foreign cuisine, a scholarly restaurateur has opened a venue that offers local recipes almost as old as the Eternal City itself.

"The idea came up a long time ago, from my experience as an archaeologist," said Franco Nicastro, a large, bearded academic who shifted careers to open the Magna Roma restaurant.

"We tested out a series of dishes because we didn't know what the results would be," he said. The more acceptable ones were added to the menu.

Nicastro uncovered about 1,800 recipes over two years of research, thinning out the pack to a few dozen. Most are composed of familiar ingredients with unfamiliar sauces, spices and presentation.

To make sense of it, the diner is provided with an 80-page booklet in English and Italian -- a sign of how seriously Nicastro takes what he calls an experiment in "archaeological gastronomy."

Magna Roma also tries to reproduce the atmosphere of Roman dining. The waitresses wear white tunics, and diners scoop and spear their food using spoons with pointy handles.