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FeaturesSeptember 17, 2003

VEGETARIAN COOKING The Associated Press A vegetarian menu that stars cornmeal-encrusted green tomatoes offers a wonderful way to use produce left on the vine after the season ends, say Caprial and John Pence, originators of the menu. The meal, including Cheddar biscuits, serves six. ...

VEGETARIAN COOKING

The Associated Press

A vegetarian menu that stars cornmeal-encrusted green tomatoes offers a wonderful way to use produce left on the vine after the season ends, say Caprial and John Pence, originators of the menu.

The meal, including Cheddar biscuits, serves six. An equally significant number is that of the cooking team: two. The dual-chef plan and its basic setup are elaborated in the Pences' new cookbook, "Caprial and John's Kitchen: Recipes for Cooking Together" (Ten Speed Press, 2003, $35).

These two accomplished cooks run Caprial's Bistro, where Caprial is executive chef, in Portland, Ore., operate a cooking school next door, and appear in the public television series "Cooking With John and Caprial."

Caprial has written seven other cookbooks, which adds to the credibility of this new one, a companion volume to the TV show. The theme of both book and show is sharing and enjoying time in the kitchen with a partner.

The full range of dishes offered, with meal menus, includes restaurant items as well as the Pences' home-cooking favorites. Plus, of course, plenty of tips about dividing kitchen duties between two cooks.

For this menu, they say, the corn salad is served at room temperature and should be finished and cooling before the tomatoes are fried -- allowing both cooks to share the tomato preparation.

The Pences' wine suggestion for the meal: A light red wine with a bit of fruit, like an Italian nebbiolo, would be an excellent end-of-summer choice for drinking with this meal.

Cornmeal-Encrusted Green Tomatoes and Grilled Corn Salad

For the grilled corn salad:

5 ears corn, shucked

1/3 cup plus 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

3 cloves garlic, minced

1 red onion, julienned

2 ripe tomatoes, seeded and diced

2 red bell peppers, roasted, peeled, seeded and diced

1 jalapeno, seeded and minced

2 teaspoons chopped fresh cilantro

2 tablespoons red wine vinegar

Salt

2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper

For the tomatoes:

6 green tomatoes, sliced about 1/2-inch thick

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 cups finely grated Monterey Jack cheese

2 cups all-purpose flour

4 large eggs, whisked until smooth

4 cups finely ground cornmeal

1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil

2/3 cup sour cream, as accompaniment

Cilantro sprigs for garnish

To prepare the corn salad: Oil the grill and prepare a hot fire. If you are using a gas grill, preheat on high. If you are using a charcoal grill, let the coals burn until they are covered with gray ash. The fire is hot when you can hold your hand over the grill for no longer than 5 seconds.

Brush the corn with 1 tablespoon of the oil, place the ears on the grill, and grill, turning often so they don't burn, until brown, 5 to 7 minutes. Let cool.

While the corn is grilling, combine the garlic, onion, tomatoes, bell peppers, jalapeno and cilantro in a medium bowl, and mix well. In a small bowl, whisk together the vinegar and the remaining 1/3 cup oil, and pour it over the vegetables. When the corn is cool, cut the kernels off the cobs. Add the corn to the salad and toss well. Season to taste with salt and the pepper. Set aside until you are ready to serve. (If the salad is prepared more than 30 minutes before serving, refrigerate it until you are ready to serve.)

To prepare the tomatoes: Lay the slices out on a sheet pan and season with salt and pepper. Distribute the cheese over the tops of the slices, pressing firmly to help it adhere; set aside. Place the flour on a large plate, the eggs in a pie plate, and the cornmeal on a large plate. Carefully dredge the prepared tomato slices in the flour, dip them in the egg mixture, then dredge in the cornmeal; return to the sheet pan.

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Heat the oil in a very large skillet over high heat until it reaches 350 F. Add as many tomato slices as will fit in the pan without overcrowding and cook until golden brown, 2 to 3 minutes per side. Drain on paper towels, and keep warm. Continue with the remaining slices.

To serve: Place about three of the slices on each plate, and top each slice with some of the corn salad. Top with a dollop of sour cream and garnish with cilantro sprigs. Serve immediately.

Makes 6 servings.

Cheddar Biscuits

14 tablespoons cold unsalted butter

3 cups all-purpose flour

2 cups grated sharp Cheddar cheese

1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon baking powder

1 1/2 teaspoons salt

1 teaspoon sugar

1 1/2 cups buttermilk

Preheat the oven to 375 F. (You will get the best results in a convection oven.) Grease a sheet pan well.

Dice 12 tablespoons ( 3/4 cup) butter. Melt the remaining 2 tablespoons.

Combine the flour, cheese, diced cold butter, baking powder, salt and sugar in a bowl. Using your fingertips, mix until the mixture resembles a coarse meal. Add the buttermilk and mix with a fork just until the dough barely comes together. Turn the dough out onto a well-floured board and use your hands to form it into a rectangle about 1/2-inch thick. With a knife, cut the dough into about 12 equal-size biscuits. Place the biscuits on the prepared pan.

Bake the biscuits for 12 to 15 minutes, until golden brown. Remove the biscuits from the oven, and brush with the melted butter. Serve warm.

Makes 12 biscuits.

Working plan:

--Cook One

Oil and light the grill.

Grill the corn.

Prep the salad ingredients.

Finish preparing the salad.

Set up the breading station with bowl of flour, egg and cornmeal.

Bread the tomatoes.

Fry the tomatoes.

Plate and garnish the tomatoes.

--Cook Two

Roast the peppers.

Cut the cooled corn.

Slice the tomatoes.

Season the tomatoes and top with cheese.

Prepare and bake the biscuits.

Help Cook One fry the tomatoes.

Brush the warm biscuits with butter, and plate.

Open and serve the wine.

(Recipes from "Caprial and John's Kitchen: Recipes for Cooking Together" by Caprial and John Pence, Ten Speed Press, 2003, $35).

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