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FeaturesAugust 25, 2004

The Associated Press Several recent cookbooks are devoted to the kind of popular food that's often passed over in the food literature because it's usually thought of as complete in itself, taken for granted or not needing a recipe. In the following books, fans of such commonplace items focus on them with creative dedication...

The Associated Press

Several recent cookbooks are devoted to the kind of popular food that's often passed over in the food literature because it's usually thought of as complete in itself, taken for granted or not needing a recipe.

In the following books, fans of such commonplace items focus on them with creative dedication.

"Sandwich" by Yisrael Aharoni (Ten Speed Press, 2004, $9.95 paperback) draws up a lively variety of ideas for giving the brown-bag lunch mainstay a bit of flair. The small-format book, with glowing photos by Nelli Sheffer, offers recipes with fillings ranging from North African potato, hard-boiled eggs and chili spread, to ricotta, grilled zucchini and pine nuts. The "bread" of these sandwiches, bruschetta or toasts includes sourdough, pita, dark rye, French rolls and croissants.

"Great Grilled Cheese" by Laura Werlin (Stewart, Tabori & Chang, 2004, $16.95) focuses on just one main ingredient in 50 different combinations for sandwiches and panini. Werlin is the award-winning author of two cheese cookbooks and an enthusiastic authority on its use. Her recipes range from simply "The Best Grilled Cheese" to a chocolate-hazelnut and goat-cheese melt, for a sumptuous dessert.

"More, Please! Macaroni and Cheese" by Deanna Keahey and Steve Kilner (Plexentric, 2004, $15.95 paperback) is busy with comic strips, charts and history -- and 111 recipes for those who must have their mac and cheese.

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Readers will find quite a lot of information and cooking tips in the package.

"Pizza Art" by Karin Niedermeier (Globe Pequot, 2004, $12.95 paperback) is full of whimsically picturesque pizzas, shown in the author's color photos. They mostly involve pizza dough cut into squares, or different geometrical shapes, animals or flowers, decorated with bright bits of other foods. They'd be ideal for parties or kids or both.

"The Marshmallow Fluff Cookbook" by Justin Schwartz (Running Press, 2004, $9.95 paperback) features more than 110 "real recipes for serious fluffernuts." The gooey sweet is the base for a variety of fillings, pies, baked and other goodies, including fudge and ice cream.

"Wing It!" by Christopher B. O'Hara (Potter, 2004, $16.95) is a glossy little collection of recipes, shown in color photos by William A. Nash, in honor of the ubiquitous bar snack. Here are general basics, plus gourmet wings, tandoori wings and chardonnay wings, among other refinements -- not forgetting a repertoire of dips.

"Wings Across America" by Armand C. Vanderstigchel (Citadel, 1999, $10.95 paperback) describes itself as "The Official National Buffalo Wing Festival Cookbook." Vanderstigchel also starts with the basics, then takes off across the country, ending up with 150 recipes, ranging from Born on the Bayou wings to California avocado wings, as well as dips, salads and side dishes.

"Munchies" by Kevin Telles Roberts (Storey, 2004, $12.95 paperback) includes many of the above specialties. The book seems calculated to persuade the desperately hungry but unskilled cook that it's OK and not at all difficult to make one of the old favorites for yourself -- and even to ring the changes, try more than one of them, and in the process end up quite the gourmet.

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