City Tavern: Belly up to the bar after Sunday service

Just when I thought I’d run out of new restaurants to try, a friend with good judgment suggested I might want to take a quick road trip over to City Tavern in downtown Perryville for some good old homestyle cooking. I was intrigued by the suggestion, and immediately squeezed the visit onto my Sunday "to do" list, right between church and grocery shopping.

I easily found City Tavern in the heart of courthouse square, beneath a faded Bud Light sign and tucked between an old-fashioned barber shop and Villainous Grounds coffee shop.

Upon entering the front door, I found myself in ... a bar. A BAR bar, complete with wood-paneled walls decorated with outdated sports memorabilia accompanied by promotional posters from past events, several hand-carved cuckoo clocks imported from Germany, left over Mardi Gras beads and a blinking fluorescent Bud Light sign which made the bar top appear to come alive with movement. There were approximately 10 small tables, one large corner table and several bar stools that were all occupied by individuals, groups and families alike.

A short wait, and the first wave of customers made their way out the door, making room for the next group of hungry patrons — me included.

I quickly bellied up to the bar where the server immediately took my drink order while effectively balancing several other duties. They say you should always go with your first instinct so, despite several menu options to choose from, Doc’s Philly Cheese Steak Omelet was a no-brainer.

City Tavern in Perryville is the perfect place to explore some of your homestyle faves. Submitted by Mary Ann Castillo

As I waited for breakfast to be served, I couldn’t help but chuckle to myself as the bottles of liquor behind the bar seemed to smirk back at me. If only Mom could see me now. I thought to myself, I’m not sure this is what Pastor Ron had in mind when he talked about "community" and encouraged us to "break bread with others" earlier that morning. Amused, my gaze wandered up and to my right, where they quickly stopped at a TV screen with the words "So let’s not get tired of doing what is good. At just the right time we will reap a harvest of blessing if we don’t give up" on the screen.

You’ve got to be kidding me.

At that moment, I couldn’t help but reflect on how City Tavern was truly embodying "the church". Come as you are. Young or old. Wealthy or just scraping by. Sinners to saints and everything in between. Pull up a chair and place your order, no judgment, no questions asked. Everyone is welcome.

I was busy relishing my moment of spiritual contemplation when a platter with a mountain of food was placed before me.

City Tavern draws a diverse range of customers by remaining dedicated to good old comfort food. Submitted by Mary Ann Castillo

It looked and smelled indulgently stick-to-your-ribs delicious. You can’t really go wrong with fluffy eggs and sauteed beef smothered with melted cheese, but kudos to whomever was at the stove that day, because their Anytown USA kitchen skills were on point. My server explained that the fried potatoes were freshly cut and fried, never frozen.

I was only halfway through my dish when I was tempted to throw in the towel. My stomach seemed ready to burst, but I was spurred on by my tastebuds and the words I’d read on the screen earlier. Don’t give up. I eventually pushed through, and I am happy to report I persevered. My only regret was not having the time (or room in my belly) to try more menu items.

You know, if I’d brought more people with me that day, we could have created our own little tasting menu right there at the bar. Hmmmm, was that just another argument in favor of community? I’m not sure, but I did leave the City Tavern grateful for some good old affordable homestyle food, and I believe you will, too.

City Tavern is located at 24 N. Jackson St. in Perryville. You can find detailed information about its history, hours and menu by visiting its website — www.citytavernmo.com — or calling (573) 547-9913.

Mary Ann Castillo has over 50 years of eating experience with no plans to stop.

City Tavern made me feel like a local. Submitted by Mary Ann Castillo