Charlie's Smokehouse: Much ado about barbecue

My goodness, have we been having some beautiful days. Spring flowers are blooming, grass is that lovely shade of eager green that heralds spring, and trees are just beginning to unfurl leaves to the sun. And the redbuds, my favorite, are on display, revealing pinks and magentas to whoever takes the time to look.

I drove to 5156 Missouri Highway 34 in Burfordville recently, to visit Charlie's Smokehouse BBQ. It sits right across from where you would turn to go visit the Bollinger Mill, so it is in a pretty cherry spot. Charlie's Smokehouse used to be a gas station called the Corner Store, but it has been Charlie's since 2019.

So after a kind of stressful time running errands, I pulled up to Charlie's, a cheery white building accented in red pretty much sitting by itself in a wide swath of parking lot. I stretched, breathed in the fresh air and walked in. Now, I arrived at a typically slow time of day, around 3 p.m., and I'm not sure how much of a hub of the town Charlie's is, but I could see it as being a main gathering place. Quite a few tables were inside but not packed too tight to move. A rack of candy bars and a fountain soda machine behind the counter told me that people still pop in to get a snack once in a while. But I was interested in the menu, and on the menu was good ol' barbecue.

Now, I'm not sure people that have lived here their whole lives realize how fortunate they are to live in barbecue ground zero. We have a lot of barbecue joints here, from mom and pop shops to national chains, and if you're craving barbecue, there is absolutely no excuse for not being able to find multiples that are delicious. I think it's safe to add Charlie's Smokehouse to that list.

I asked what was the most popular menu item, and the kind (and patient) people working there told me that the pulled pork was the winner, so I ordered it on Texas toast, with a side of BLT pasta salad and another of cucumbers and onions. I also placed a to-go order for a pork steak, more pasta salad and baked beans. By the time I'd visited the powder room, my food was ready, which was excellent because I hadn't eaten that day and I was ravenous.

Charlie's Smoke house pork steak, photographed in award-winning, artistic, and inspired style in my flowerbed.Submitted by Rebecca LaClair

Charlie's Smoke house pork steak, photographed in award-winning, artistic, and inspired style in my flowerbed.Submitted by Rebecca LaClair

The pulled pork wasn't pre-sauced, so after taste- testing the sauce on the table (sweet, thick, dark brown and smoky), I promptly slathered it on. I'm picky about how my toast is, well, toasted, and this was perfect. Slathered with butter and then fried on a griddle or skillet until golden brown and crispy, it had that echoey soft crunch when I bit into it that I love. Delicious. Tender and juicy, not a dry bite on the sandwich, the meat was piled up generously. Not stringy, the pieces were bit-sized and the whole sandwich held together nicely, the only messiness being the amount of sauce that I prefer. Okay, now that the first few bites were taken out of pure hunger, I could slow down and enjoy.

The BLT pasta was a winner, with one-inch squares of smoky, crispy bacon interspersed with pasta and a creamy dressing, probably mayo. But nothing says summer for me like fresh cucumbers, and these had been marinated in vinegar and sugar along with the onions. Crunchy, tangy, sweet, a little spicy bite from the onions, I will contend that this is the perfect, old-fashioned side that sings with summer flavors.

After visiting the Mill and listening to the waterfall for a short, peaceful time, I went home and photographed my husband's pork steak outside in a flower bed. I'm sure he will appreciate knowing that I drug his meal all over the yard looking for the perfect photo op, and I can only imagine what my neighbor's think of me. Later that night, I reheated it for him and he let me try a bite, his never-ending sacrifice to this column that we all appreciate. So tender, seasoned lightly but well, I liked the pork steak even more than the pulled pork. The baked beans had pulled pork in them, too, and he ate every bite of everything I put in front of him (except for the couple I stole).

Enjoy these perfect spring days outside, maybe with a picnic, and long live barbecue!