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FoodJanuary 31, 2019

Berghoff's Cafe in Scott City thrives without flashy signs, offering locals irresistible French toast, hearty chili, and simple yet delicious burgers. Discover why this hidden gem is a local favorite.

Betty's Big Burger towers above the fries at Berghoff's Cafe.
Betty's Big Burger towers above the fries at Berghoff's Cafe.Submitted by Rebecca LaClair

In Scott City just over the tracks is a squat little building with an "OPEN" sign hanging on the door. No outside signage, nothing in the windows, just that simple "OPEN" sign. This is Berghoff's Cafe, and if you can see white lattice through the windows, you're in the right place.

At first, I was confused by the lack of signs. I mean, what would be the reason not to proclaim the name of your restaurant and what is within? But I quickly realized that Berghoff's doesn't need a sign because all of the locals are already quite aware of what this building is and what lies within. And what lies within, my friends, is a charming, simple, local diner atmosphere with genuinely well-prepared and delicious food.

Berghoff's is open until 2 p.m. Sunday to Thursday and until 8 p.m. Friday and Saturday. Breakfast is served all day and this is a very good thing, because they have the most amazing French toast I have eaten in Missouri.

Inch-and-a-half thick slabs of soft buttery bread are dipped in a perfect egg mixture (not too thick and eggey, and not too thin and soggy), then cooked until the edges are crispy and the outside is golden brown. Those crispy edges are what make the dish, honestly. Caramelized to perfection, the grilled edges pop in your mouth and lend texture to what is by nature a soft dish. This tiny crunchiness is a concentrated burst of sweetness. They powder their French toast after it's plated and serve it with syrup on the side so you can drown it or just drizzle it on carefully. However, and this is what makes it excellent: Berghoff's French toast doesn't really need syrup. It is sweet enough with the powdered sugar and has enough flavor that it can stand on its own. If you like syrup, though, I'm not going to stop you. This toast can handle that, as well.

Switching it up, we also ordered from the dinner menu. Berghoff's homemade chili just hits the spot this time of year. Thick and with a good meat-to-bean ratio, the mild flavor was spot on for me because I don't like a scorching spicy chili. This chili is just begging for grilled cheese to dip into it, which is exactly how they served it. I believe this was a special, so if you're lucky enough to be in the right place at the right time, you can give it a try.

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Thick French Toast, good enough for dessert at Berghoff's Cafe.
Thick French Toast, good enough for dessert at Berghoff's Cafe.Submitted by Rebecca LaClair

I'll be honest, I tend to like my burger's gourmet. Large, with sauces running off of them on artisan breads and with rare cheeses. Betty's Big Burger is none of these things. Here's how the menu describes it: "Delicious double bacon cheeseburger served with a generous helping of fries." Simple, right? Straight-forward? But simple is so incredibly hard to do well. Sauces can cover and disguise any number of burger flaws, from poorly seasoned meat to limp toppings. Betty's Big Burger can't hide behind any of that, because it is what it says: a double bacon cheeseburger. But make no mistake, this is a delicious burger. In fact, as I write about it a day later, I'm craving the taste of one right now.

The patties are thinner than what you'd expect in a "fancy" burger, but this a positive. More surface area gives more room for that wonderful savory browning to cover the outside of the meat. Thinner patties make it harder to keep those meat juices inside of the patty, but Berghoff's pulls this off as well. This is a juicy, beautiful burger, towering high, simple and true.

One thing that should be mentioned in passing is Berghoff's menu prices. They are extremely reasonable and the amount of quality you get for the price is criminal.

In our world of bigger, better, crazy foods and large attention-grabbing signs, I think a place like Berghoff's Cafe is a breath of fresh air. "Normal" fare that is anything but normal, done very well with no bells and whistles, unassuming and standing on its own merits as good food. With cheerful service, fast and hot food that is delicious and comforting, THIS is the heart and soul of the restaurant industry. And anywhere that serves genuine corn beef hash is aces in my book.

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