Cookbook recipes celebrate chocolate

WILTON, Conn. -- Marcel Desaulniers is an award-winning cookbook author, and the highly acclaimed executive chef-owner of the Trellis Restaurant in Williamsburg, Va.

He's also a cheerleader for chocolate, witness his latest opus: "Celebrate With Chocolate" (Morrow, 2002, $24.95).

His other books on chocolate include 1992's "Death by Chocolate," which won a James Beard Award, and "Desserts To Die For" (1995), which won a Julia Child Award.

When I asked him what made this book different, he told me, "The premise for the book is that every day presents an occasion to celebrate with chocolate.

"When I was growing up, my working-out-of-the-house, single-parent mom (she was widowed at age 37 with 6 kids) loved to bake with chocolate. She did not bake every day, but at least once or twice a week. For my mom, chocolate was something that made life worth living.

"It also gave her an opportunity to turn off her brain, forget about the travails of life for a bit, and indulge herself and her children with chocolate.

"I think this book presents my most whimsical collection of recipes, as well as the easiest to prepare, with the exception of a few like Rolf's Old World Black Forest Cake -- take a few days off for that one!

"My mother's philosophy that chocolate cravings should not be denied (we ate it at will) is a gift that I hope to continue sharing with chocolate lovers everywhere."

In spite of his French-sounding name, Desaulniers hails from Woonsocket, R.I., and he's a former Marine. I have made many of his recipes over the years and something about his style seems all-American to me (even though he has traveled abroad extensively).

He approaches his recipes, and their accompanying descriptions, with gusto -- this book is subtitled "Totally Over-the-Top Recipes."

But the recipes are also very explicit, with very clear descriptions of the preparation. When you are looking for big chocolate flavor, his recipes never disappoint, and they usually have a creative twist.

Simple and sophisticated

Even his most simple cookie has a sophisticated balance of flavors. I have never found them too bland, too airy, too dry, or too sweet -- which are frequent shortcomings with desserts.

Following is a recipe I tested from his book. Mrs. D's "She Ain't Heavy" Chocolate Cake will probably be my husband's birthday cake of choice for many years to come.

Desaulnier points out that the cake, named for his mother, is made with cocoa powder and no chocolate, but added "Mom knows best." I doubted that a cake made with cocoa could deliver a rich chocolate taste, but this one did not disappoint us.

Mrs. D's She Ain't Heavy Chocolate Cake

1 tablespoon unsalted butter, melted

2 cups cake flour

3/4 cup unsweetened cocoa powder

1 1/4 teaspoons baking soda

1/2 teaspoon double-acting baking powder

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 3/4 cups granulated sugar

3/4 pound (3 sticks) unsalted butter, cut into 1/2-ounce pieces

3 large eggs

1 1/4 cups whole milk

1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

For Mrs. D's "Hasn't Failed Me Yet" Cocoa Icing:

1 1/4 pounds confectioners' sugar

1 1/4 cups unsweetened cocoa powder

1 1/4 pounds (5 sticks) unsalted butter, cut into 1/2-ounce pieces

1/2 cup whole milk

1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

To make Mrs. D's "She Ain't Heavy" Chocolate Cake:

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

Lightly coat the insides of three 9-by-1 1/2-inch cake pans with some of the melted butter. Line the bottoms of the pans with parchment paper (or wax paper), then lightly coat the paper with more melted butter. Set aside.

In a sifter combine the cake flour, cocoa powder, baking soda, baking powder and salt. Sift onto a large piece of parchment paper (or wax paper) and set aside.

Place the sugar and the 3/4 pound butter in the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with a paddle. Mix on low speed for 1 minute, then beat on medium until soft, about 2 minutes. Scrape down the sides of the bowl and the paddle.

Continue beating on medium for an additional 2 minutes until very soft. Scrape down the sides of the bowl and the paddle. Add the eggs one at a time, beating on medium for 30 seconds after each addition, and scraping down the sides of the bowl once the eggs have been incorporated.

Operate the mixer on low while gradually adding about half of the dry ingredients, followed by about half of the milk.

Once these ingredients have been incorporated, about 1 1/2 minutes, gradually add the remaining dry ingredients, followed by the remaining milk; mix until incorporated, about 1 1/2 minutes. Scrape down the sides of the bowl and the paddle. Don't be concerned if the batter looks a bit odd texturally at this point (because of the interaction between the milk and butter); it will come together nicely with the next step.

Add the vanilla extract and mix on low for 5 seconds; beat on medium for 1 minute until thoroughly combined. Remove the bowl from the mixer and use a rubber spatula to finish mixing the ingredients until thoroughly combined.

Now the batter looks very thick, a bit like soft-serve ice cream, but please don't taste, because the ingestion of raw eggs may not be salubrious. Immediately divide the cake batter among the prepared pans (about 2 1/4 cups in each pan), spreading evenly (an offset spatula would work best).

Bake on the top and center racks in the oven until a toothpick inserted in the center of each cake layer comes out clean, about 35 minutes. (Rotate the pans from top to center halfway through the baking time.)

Remove the cake layers from the oven and cool in the pans for 15 to 20 minutes at room temperature. Invert the cake layers onto cake circles (or cake plates) wrapped with plastic wrap or lined with parchment paper or wax paper. Carefully peel the paper away from the bottoms of the layers. Refrigerate the cake layers while preparing the icing.

Steps for making icing

To make Mrs. D's "Hasn't Failed Me Yet" Cocoa Icing:

In a sifter combine the confectioners' sugar and cocoa powder. Sift onto an extra large (about 12 by 20 inches) piece of parchment paper (or wax paper) and set aside.

Place the butter in the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with a paddle. Mix on low speed for 1 minute; increase the speed to medium and beat for 2 minutes until soft. Use a rubber spatula to scrape down the sides of the bowl and paddle. Beat on medium for 2 more minutes until very soft. Scrape down the sides of the bowl and paddle.

Operate the mixer on the lowest speed (stir) while gradually adding about half the amount of dry ingredients, followed by half the amount of milk.

Once these ingredients have been incorporated, about 2 minutes, add the remaining dry ingredients, followed by the remaining milk; mix until incorporated, about 2 minutes. Scrape down the sides of the bowl and the paddle.

Beat on medium for 1 more minute until very soft and fluffy. Add the vanilla extract and mix on low for 5 seconds; increase the speed to medium and beat for 1 minute until very soft and fluffy. Remove the bowl from the mixer and use a rubber spatula to finish mixing the icing until thoroughly combined.

To assemble Mrs. D's "She Ain't Heavy "Chocolate Cake:

Remove the cake layers from the refrigerator. Turn one of the layers onto a clean cake circle (or cake plate), then peel off the paper.

Use a cake spatula to spread 1 1/2 cups of icing evenly and smoothly over the top and to the edges of the cake layer. Turn a second cake layer onto the iced layer, then peel off the paper. Use a cake spatula to spread 1 1/2 cups of icing evenly and smoothly over the top to the edges of the cake layer. Turn the remaining cake layer onto the second iced layer and gently press the layers into place. Spread the remaining icing over the top and sides of the entire cake. Refrigerate the cake for 1 hour before serving.

To serve:

Heat the blade of a serrated slicer under hot running water and wipe the blade dry before making each slice. Keep the slices at room temperature for 15 to 20 minutes before serving.

Makes 12 servings.

Chef's note: This cake may be prepared over 2 days.

Day 1: Bake the "She Ain't Heavy" Chocolate Cake Layers. Once they're cooled, cover each layer with plastic wrap and refrigerate.

Day 2: Make the "Hasn't Failed Me Yet" Cocoa Icing. Assemble the cake as directed in the recipe. Refrigerate for 1 hour before serving.

After assembly, you may keep Mrs. D's "She Ain't Heavy" Chocolate Cake in the refrigerator for 3 to 4 days before serving. To avoid permeating the cake with refrigerator odors, place the cake in a large, tightly sealed plastic container.