Authentically Italian

"It will be for people in the imminent third millennium to decide which countries or cultures have made the greatest contribution, in terms of food, to human happiness," said the Oxford Companion to Food at the turn of this century, "but it seems safe to predict that the Italians will be up there at or near the top of the list."

I couldn't agree more. And I'm hardly alone. As Jonathan Gianfreda, a butcher who hails from the Veneto region of Northern Italy, observes, Italian food is like a pair of jeans -- everybody feels comfortable with it.

But Italians themselves are not always comfortable with what passes for Italian food outside their own country. For example, recently Italy's former ambassador to England complained about what he called the "perversion" of Italian cuisine there. "Some Italian restaurants are offering dishes that have no relation whatsoever to Italian food," he grumbled. Something tells me he won't be the first in line if the Olive Garden opens a branch in London.

The situation has gotten so bad in the view of the Italian Ministry of Agriculture that it has set out to check the authenticity of the thousands of so-called Italian restaurants around the world. Those deemed by inspectors to be genuine will receive a sticker testifying to their status.

The latest front in Italy's war to protect its culinary heritage is the just-opened Academia Barilla located in Parma, the heart of Italy's "food valley." Dedicated to promoting, developing and defending Italian gastronomy around the globe, this world headquarters for all things regarding Italian cuisine is so new you won't read about it in Gourmet Magazine until next month or see it on the Food Network until next year. You needn't wait, though. I just returned from there and I can tell you all about it.

It was clear the moment I walked in the place, built on the site where over 100 years ago the Barilla pasta company opened its first factory, that the Academia Barilla is serious about its mission of "safeguarding Italian food and drink traditions and gastronomic arts through educational programs." This includes protecting the unsuspecting from imitations and encouraging the production of high quality Italian food and drink. Sleek, modern and definitely deluxe, the Academia couldn't be better equipped to do all those things.

Lucien, my guide, first took me to the auditorium where guest chefs will give cooking demonstrations. With seating for 90, state of the art audio-visual equipment, and a custom cook top as beautiful as anything ever designed by Leonardo Da Vinci, the room is gorgeous. Then it was off to the practice laboratory, which houses 16 professional kitchens. There are separate labs for bread and pizza making. Just when I thought the facilities couldn't get any more high-tech, I was ushered into a lecture room with glass walls and shown the multimedia center, which features wireless Internet connections.

In this strikingly beautiful setting who wouldn't want to take instruction on subjects ranging from Italian pastry to prosciutti to Parmesan cheese? The institute offers entire courses on gelato, risotto and, of course, olive oil. In fact, anything you'd want to know about Italian cooking you can learn there. And you don't have to be a culinary professional to enroll.

If you're interested in visiting the Academia Barilla, the toll-free number to call is (866) 772-2233. If you go, tell them I sent you. Better yet, take me back with you.

Fettuccine with Walnuts

This simple recipe is adapted from one supplied by Barilla, the company behind Italy's new center of Italian gastronomy, the Academia Barilla, and the leading name in pasta in Italy.

Ingredients:

4 tablespoons butter

1 finely chopped clove of garlic

1 cup walnuts, finely chopped

pinch of grated nutmeg

salt and pepper

1 pound fettuccine

grated Parmesan cheese

Directions:

Melt butter in a large skillet over medium heat. Add garlic and sauté until garlic begins to sizzle. Add walnuts and cook, stirring, until heated through. Add nutmeg and salt and pepper to taste. Cook fettuccine according to package directions, drain and toss with walnut sauce. Sprinkle generously with cheese and serve.

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