OUTDOOR CORNER: A PRUDENT APPROACH IS BEST WHEN PRUNING

As a forester, people often ask me about pruning trees.

Their main concern usually centers on whether or not they should prune a tree or trees in their yard. Pruning trees is a natural part of our outdoor culture just like cutting grass and gardening. If pruned properly, a tree can be a long-term asset for a homeowner, rewarding them with much satisfaction. If pruned incorrectly or inadvertently, the tree could become a liability and a continual headache.

First and foremost, I try to explain that pruning should be done for the right reasons. Just because the neighbor has pruned his trees is not in itself the right reason.

The main reason trees are pruned include safety, health and looks. In addition, pruning trees can also be used to stimulate fruit production for orchard owners and increase the value of timber for high value tree species like walnut.

Pruning for safety involves removing branches that could fall and cause injury or property dame, trimming branches that interfere with lines of sight on streets or driveways and removing branches that grow into utility lines.

Safety pruning can be largely avoided by carefully choosing species that will not grow beyond the space available to them, and have strength and form characteristics that are suited to the site.

One classic example I commonly encounter and have been guilty of myself, is called the "shrinking space syndrome." This syndrome occurs about 15 years after a small four-foot tall tree has been planted. What happens is, the space around and above the tree suddenly shrinks until the tree is now touching the utility lines that were once 20 feet overhead, and the tree's branches are now rubbing against the house that used to be 10 feet away. If this syndrome does occur, pruning is the only treatment besides complete removal.

Pruning for health involves removing diseased or insect-infested wood, thinning the crown to increase airflow and reduce some pest problems, and removing crossing and rubbing branches. Pruning can best be used to encourage trees to develop a strong natural shape and reduce the likelihood of damage during severe weather. I must reiterate, pruning merely reduces the risk of damage, it does not eliminate it. Even the healthiest of trees can be blown or damaged during severe storms. Removing broken or damaged limbs also encourages wounds to heal faster.

Pruning trees to make them more attractive is largely subjective. The saying, "beauty is in the eyes of the beholder" is applicable with tree pruning. What looks good to one may not look good to another. Some people severely prune or top their trees frequently and get great satisfaction from the subsequent unnatural "poodle tree" appearance. Others, including yours truly, enjoy a tree's natural shape realizing it is very difficult to impose an unnatural form on a tree without a commitment to constant maintenance.

While the attractiveness of pruned trees can be debated at length, the forestry profession recommends appearance to be the least most important reason to prune. Prune first for safety, next for health and finally for looks.

Once a legitimate reason for pruning has been established, you must next determine when to prune, how to prune, and who will do the pruning.

First, when should trees be pruned? Without exception, all types of tees can be pruned successfully during the dormant season. Right now is the best time of the year to prune. Evergreen trees may be pruned any time of the year, but pruning during the dormant season may minimize sap and resin flow from cut branches. Some hardwood trees can be pruned during the growing season, but certain varieties, such as oaks and elms, are at risk of getting certain diseases from pruning wounds. To be safe, prune in the fall and winter.

What is the proper way to prune a tree? First, a distinction must be made between pruning, topping and tipping. Topping and tipping are pruning practices that harm trees and should not be used.

Topping is the pruning of large upright branches between nodes (the point at which one branch or twig attaches fo another). Tipping is a practice of cutting lateral branches between nodes to reduce crown width.

The taletell signs of topping and tipping are numerous branch stubs and a profusion of weakly attached branches protruding from the ends of these stubs. These weakly jointed branches are more prone to weather damage and defeat the initial purpose of pruning.

The only correct way to prune off a branch is to always prune at a node. If this single technique is followed, the majority of pruning problems will be prevented.

When people ask who should prune a tree, I usually ask them who cuts their hair? Their answer of course is always a hair care professional. Imagine if eveyone cut their own hair. Scary thought isn't it? Pruning trees is no different.

If you want your trees to not only look the best, but be the healthiest and safest, let a professional do the pruning. When it comes to tree care, an arborist is the professional. They have the training and tools to do the job correctly.

If a person wants to prune their own trees, I always recommend they first seek professional advice. Consult an arborist, forester, nursery or garden center before you lop off a limb. Pruning tees isn't rocket science, but there is a right way.

Rocky Hayes is an urban forester with the Missouri Department of Conservation in Southeast Missouri.