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FeaturesMarch 16, 1994

This is a happy time in the garden. Daffodils are blooming and soon the tulips will follow. For the next two months we can expect and welcome those sleeping bulbs that are now awake and move to center stage after snowdrops, crocus and some scilla. Daffodils - more formally known by their family name of narcissus - are treasured for their repeat performances. ...

This is a happy time in the garden. Daffodils are blooming and soon the tulips will follow. For the next two months we can expect and welcome those sleeping bulbs that are now awake and move to center stage after snowdrops, crocus and some scilla.

Daffodils - more formally known by their family name of narcissus - are treasured for their repeat performances. Real show stoppers in their first season (for all you have to do is put them into the ground in the fall), they can go on to spread and multiply, coming back for years and years. Some have been known to remain for centuries.

Most of the daffodils originated in Spain, Portugal and North Africa. Traders and travelers spread them worldwide, mostly in England where they began hybridizing practices. They have done so much with them that now some of the newer varieties would never be recognized as daffodils.

Daffodils have certainly come a long way from the old fashioned ones that bloomed around farm houses, and still are blooming in deserted areas where once possibly stood a house or barn in the country. Now in shades of pink, coral and even pale green, all the colors that were never dreamed of in grandmother's day are now mixed into the some 5000 different varieties now on the market.

Not only are there new colors and color combinations, but hybridizers are putting greater emphasis on scents of these lovely flowers. Many show shades of pink with darker shades into light red. In miniatures, there is even a lilac flower in development.

Those looking for red and purple narcissi should have patience, warns one authority, because these exotics will not be available for six years or so. Hybridizing is a slow process. It can take 10 to 15 years to bring a new variety to market. Then some varieties that were started by a grandfather, may not have the perfection or the quantity to market until his grandson has taken over the project.

Like other spring flowering bulbs they like good drainage (they hate wet feet), and will bloom in either sun or shade, although when most spring flowering bulbs are at their peak, there are few trees that are completely leafed out.

The general rule of thumb for spring flowering bulbs is that they should be planted twice as deep as they are high. The underside (flat) side of the bulb eight inches deep for large bulbs such as daffodils, tulips and hyacinths, and about four inches deep for the minor bulbs, which bloom early.

The shallower one plants bulbs, the more bulbets will be formed. many people who plant bulbs use only bone meal, which is primarily phosphorous. They need potassium and nitrogen, too. A good example is Bulb Booster (9-9-6), developed by North Carolina State University. It should be worked into the soil. (Do not fertilize in the planting hole and then plop the bulb on top as this will burn the roots.)

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Flower bulbs, like potatoes and onions, are perishable. Plant them as soon as possible after you get them.

Rodents will not eat daffodil bulbs, because they are poisonous to them, but they will use mole runs and eat other bulbs. It is my opinion that is what has happened to the many, many tulips planted here. The first year they are beautiful, the next only a portion of them came up and then the next fewer and fewer until there are no more. If all of the tulips planted here had remained, it would be necessary to "tip toe through the tulips" to get to our house.

Daffodils are wonderful for naturalizing providing there is room. Those most often recommended for naturalizing include Ice Follies, Carlton, Dravoure, Salome, Cassata and some of the doubles, such as Ice King and White Marvel.

When buying new bulbs, many people want only King Alfred, but there are many, many new exciting trumpet daffodils. Why not try Lemon Glow, Mount Hood, Spellbinder, Unsurpassable or Dutch Master?

It has been suggested by authorities that daffodils be picked with your fingers rather than cutting them. The upper part of the stem is hollow and won't hold moisture, so reach down to the white portion of the stem, and snap it off, being sure to leave the foliage intact.

Daffodils give off a secretion that is harmful to other flowers. Before arranging them with other flowers, place the stems in about eight inches of lukewarm water for an hour or so. Then, change the water and let them stand for an hour or more.

Since they will not penetrate florists oasis easily, place them in a tall vase or use crumpled chicken wire or pin holders to anchor the stems in shallow containers. Properly cared for in this way they will last for several days inside, especially if placed in a cool spot at night.

Do not strangle the foliage of bulbs by tying it up after they have finished blooming. They need to breathe and take up food for next year's flower. It used to be that braiding the foliage was permitted, but now that has been proved wrong.

The foliage may be cut off when it begins to turn yellow and fall over. Cutting it earlier will rob the bulb of proper nutrients that aid flower production. Also planting perennials and annuals with your bulbs help mask the maturing foliage.

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