LADYBUG SAYS... SEVERAL METHODS FOR DRYING MANY FLOWERS NOW AVAILABLE

When a young friend received a dozen beautiful pink-apricot roses, she declared she was going to keep them forever and ever. When asked how she proposed to do this, she said "Just hang them upside and dry them when they have finished blooming."

Well, there are many flowers that may be preserved this way, but there are other methods of drying roses with good results. Many flowers are easily dried.

The two easiest methods of drying flowers are by hanging the stems with flower heads down and by burying them in sand (silica). The microwave method is the newest and possibly the simplest. The most satisfactory way to preserve foliage is with glycerin.

Drying flower by hanging is simple if you can provide proper conditions such as a dry, dark, well ventilated place, such as an attic. After stripping off foliage, tie the flowers in small bunches and hang them with heads down. Flowers will dry in two or three weeks.

Some flowers are grown especially for drying. Statice is one of the most decorative everlasting. They produce dense sprays in bold colors on stiff stems which are perfect for vibrant winter bouquets. They last for months when dried.

Strawflowers are indispensable for dried arrangements. To dry them, cut the flowers just before pollen shows, remove foliage, bunch loosely and hang heads downward to dry. Their colors are vibrant in shades of crimson, fiery red, pink and gold.

Gomphrena, a free flowering annual produces clover-like flowers all summer long. It is an old, old favorite which comes in reddish purple, and more recently a bright red; also, pink and white. It is one of the best flowers for drying as it holds its color so well.

There is nothing more desirable or easier to dry than baby's breath. Its clouds of tiny, airy flowers cover the plants all summer. Excellent used in fresh bouquets and then dried for use later.

Cockscomb, globe amaranth, globe thistle, and the lovely achilleas can all be dried by hanging. Okra can be bleached by placing it a bleach solution overnight, and it makes a great addition to a winter bouquet.

Drying flowers in a fine sand, known as silica is popular. Another form of silica is silica gel.

Authorities suggest using a sturdy container at least three inches deep. Then fill the container half full this sand. Strip all foliage from the stem and place flowers face down in the sand so petals do not touch. Let the media trickle through your hand over them, completely covering all parts of the flower.

A few flowers, including roses, dahlias and daffodils, dry best if placed face up with the base pushed into the media. Spiky flowers, such as larkspur and bells of Ireland, should be placed horizontally. The entire stalk should be covered.

Set container in a cool, dry place. Check them after a week. Flowers vary in the time it takes to dry.

Drying flowers in a microwave is a successful craft if the directions for use of the microwave are followed completely.

Brightly colored flowers dry best. Flowers such as roses, carnation, violets and zinnias work well with this process using silica gel. For best results flowers should be partially opened. Avoid using flowers with thick centers. Leaves should be dried separately and then added to the stems.

By far the most satisfactory way to preserve foliage is by the glycerin and water method. Leaves treated this way remain soft and pliable with a rich satiny finish. Magnolia leaves turn different shades of brown, depending on the time of year they are picked and the length of time they are left in the solution.

Beech leaves, if processed while they are green, will become a soft olive, but if treated after they turn gold in the fall, will turn russet. Pear leaves turn dark brown, almost black.

The best time for processing leaves in glycerin is now when the leaves are neither too young or too old. The length of the branch is important since the glycerin solution must travel from the cut end of the stem to the tip of the farthest leaf. The maximum length of any branch should be 1 1/2 feet.

Clean the foliage thoroughly and remove any unwanted leaves. Pound with a hammer, or split with a sharp knife the lower two inches of the stems. This will allow the solution to be taken up more quickly. Cut the branches early in the day so that they are fresh and soon absorb the solution.

It is only necessary to put a small amount of solution in a tall jar, using 1/3 glycerin and 2/3 water. Do not crowd the branches.

It is fascinating to watch the glycerin as it travels through the ribs to the tips and edges of the leaves, gradually changing their color. This process can change the color of the leaves from a few days to two weeks.

If one wishes to save any dried materials, it is wise to put them in a box with a tightly fitting lid and to put a few moth crystals or a coating of spray before storing so that no small visitors will be tempted to dine on them. The most unlikely materials seem to offer room and board to weevils so an ounce of prevention really pays.