LADY BUG: BULBS WON'T DO ANY GOOD IN SACK: PLANT THEM

Of all the spring blooming bulbs, daffodils are possibly the most dependable and most rewarding and easiest to grow. Just dig a hole, drop the bulb in, and there will be a generous flower come spring. Easy, isn't it? Treated right, they will not only return next year, but will multiply.

Last spring when we attended a Garden Symposium in Williamsburg, Va., one of the outstanding speakers was Brent Heath, a third-generation bulb grower from The Daffodil Mart of Gloucester, Va., who had tubs and tubs of outstanding new introductions of my favorite flower.

Brent, with his wife, Becky, told of their vast industry and explained where their bulbs come from. Over the past 20 years they have had a working relationship with more than 100 quality speciality bulb growers in Holland, England and Israel. All bulbs that come from these countries are inspected and must meet rigid standards. All bulbs sold in this country have met the standards.

They said all bulbs have their own stored food and even though they are asleep when placed on the market purchasers need to select solid, firm bulbs. Do not purchase any that are soft, bruised or molded. Daffodils are the most dependable.

Flower bulbs, like onions and potatoes, are perishable, they said and should be planted as soon as possible after purchased or received by shipment. They should be stored, if necessary, in a dry place with plenty of ventilation so the bulbs can breathe.

Just as human beings and other animals change physically with maturity, flowers often change color as they mature. Some open yellow and mature to white, some open yellow and mature to pink, some open yellow and mature to orange, and some don't change. Colors stated in catalogs are the mature flower.

Some bulbs multiply more rapidly than others and some don't stay with us for long. Tulips have been bulbs for us that don't remain long. Rodents seem to be the culprit. Daffodils, squills and crocuses will get larger with the passing seasons.

Heath suggested outlining daffodil beds with grape hyacinths, which send up narrow thin leaves in the fall, or using golf tees, so you will know where to fertilize bulbs each fall. This also helps to locate bulb beds that you wish to enlarge. The golf tee idea works wonderfully because the lawn mower goes right over them.

By choosing a variety of daffodils, gardeners can possibly have a six-to eight-week flowering season, by planting from the very early starting with February Gold and, ending with Geranium.

At Daffodil mart, the variety Ceylon has been known to last six weeks if the weather isn't too hot. They also recommend Bravoure, St. Keverne, Ice Wings, Pink Charm, Gigantic Star, Redhill and Bella Vista, for lasting qualities.

Bulbs may be planted in various ways. For example, they can be planted in individual holes or in trenches. You can create an attractive effect by scattering the bulbs and planting them where they fall to establish a natural look.

How deep? The rule of thumb is to plant bulbs twice as deep as they are high. Daffodils need to be planted deeper. How far apart? Generally speaking, plant the larger varieties 5 inches apart, smaller bulbs are best planted at 4-inch intervals. If you prefer an uninterrupted area full of color, they can safely be planted a bit closer.

Planting is much like pruning. Forget the schedules and do it when you have time and energy. Just get them into the ground before it is frozen. Bulbs won't do any good in the sack and won't keep from season to season.

Soil should be well loosened before planting. Then smooth the surface a bit. If planting in heavy clay soil, it is best to mix the top layer with sand or compost.

Heath's recipe for success with daffodils includes the key ingredients of water, light and food. Give them a place where they receive at least a half-day of sun, and water in spring where there is less than a half-inch of rain weekly. Fertilize when you plant, but not with bonemeal, Heath warned.

Bonemeal is the traditional fertilizer, but it is primarily phosphorus. Daffodils need nitrogen and potassium, and they need it during the winter when roots are developing. They suggest working the fertilizer into the soil and top dressing. Also a slow release fertilizer 5-10-20 maybe used. They also suggest not to fertilize after flowering, which once was the custom.

Many people have inquired why their Christmas cacti have budded, and some bloomed so early. Dortha Strack at Sunny Hill said it possibly was because we had a cool spell and then the nights became warmer. This provided shock to them. Not watering will also throw them into shock, which will cause them to bloom out of season. One person said hers bloomed three times the past year.

~Mary Blue is a resident of Cape Girardeau and is an avid gardener.