ALONG THE MISSISSIPPI: THE SECRET OF GRANDMOTHER'S NEVER-FAIL LEMON CREAM PIE

My Grandmother Mays' kitchen was filled with good things to eat. Country bacon and breakfast biscuits were waiting for you in the warming compartment of the stove, while her cupboard stored sweet dried fruits from the summer harvest. In my whole life, Grandmother Mays' cookie jar was never empty. But, my favorite spot was her old pie safe, for there was always a "Lemon Cream Pie" just waiting for me. Seated on the wooden bench at her table, I would devour this velvety concoction of cream and lemon in its perfect crispy crust, topped with mile-high meringue.

1 1/2 cups sugar

5 tablespoons flour

1 cup evaporated milk

1/2 cup milk

1/2 cup fresh lemon juice

4 egg yolks (reserve 3 egg whites for meringue)

2 tablespoons butter

1 baked 9-inch deep-dish pie crust

Preheat oven to 325 degrees

1. Mix sugar and flour in a heavy saucepan.

2. Add both milks and lemon juice; stir well.

3. Whisk in egg yolks.

4. Cook mixture, over low heat, until boiling point is reached and custard has thickened, stirring constantly, about 10 minutes.

5. Stir in butter.

6. Pour hot filling into baked pie shell.

7. Spread meringue over filling and bake in preheated 325 degree oven for 10 to 15 minutes until lightly browned.

8. Cool pie on rack for two hours before serving.

Yield: 6-8 servings.

Never-fail Meringue

3 egg whites

1/2 teaspoon cream of tartar

6 tablespoons powdered sugar

2 tablespoons marshmallow cream

1/2 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees (325 degrees, if oven cooked hot)

2. Whip egg whites until frothy.

3. Add cream of tartar. Whip until stiff (peaks wil lean over slightly when beaters are removed.)

4. Beat in marshmallow cream.

5. Beat in powdered sugar 2 tablespoons at a time.

6. Beat in vanilla extract.

7. Spread on pie, making sure to seal edges around crust and bake 10 to 15 minutes, or until lightly-browned.

Yield: Enough meringue for 9-inch pie.

Angie Holtzhouser is author of Drop Dumplin's and Pan-Fried Memories ... Along the Mississippi. Her cookbook is available at local bookstores. In addition, it can be purchased through the mail at: Drop Dumplin's, P.O. Box 10, Lilbourn, Mo. 63862. The price is $19.95, including tax and shipping.