ALONG THE MISSISSIPPI: TESSIE'S OLD SOUTH CHESS PIE IS STAR OF THE SHOW

A piece of chess pie is a piece of rich Southern tradition. And, my mother, Tessie Thompson, makes the best chess pie using a treasured family recipe.

In 1969 my college dorm mates never tired of eating the chess pie that came "special delivery" via my mother and daddy. The arrival of my parents on Saturday mornings was a most anticipated event, since they came bearing food, not by the box, but by the boxes.

It is a well known fact that college students are forever hungry for home-cooked food, and my mother never let them down. Brimming boxes held riches like Tennessee fried chicken and angel biscuits, green beans and new potatoes, pickled peaches, sweet tea, and the star of the show: chess pie.

Mother still has all the letters that I wrote home. Every sentence began with please send me, please buy me, please bring me or please make a certain dish. It is a wonder that my parents had not turn-tailed-and-run in the opposite direction. I guess being the toast-of-the-dorm held its own special reward.

To this day every time I see a chess pie, I heard the voices of long ago friend cheerfully shouting, "They're here, they're here."

Chess pie

1 1/2 cups sugar

2 tablespoon flour

1 stick unsalted butter, melted

1/2 cup evaporated milk

3 eggs, lightly beaten

1 prepared unbaked 9-inch pie crust

Preheat oven to 325 degrees.

Mix sugar and flour.

Add melted butter to mixture.

Blend in evaporated milk.

Add eggs, mix well.

Pour into prepared crust.

Bake at 325 degrees for 1 hour or until center is firm to the touch.

Cool on rack 1 hour before serving.

Yield: 6-8 servings.

Angie Holtzhouser is author of "Drop Dumplin's and Pan-Fried Memories ... Along the Mississippi." Her cookbook is available at local bookstores. In addition, it can be purchased through the mail at: Drop Dumplin's, P.O. Box 10, Lilbourn, Mo. 63862. The price is $19.95, including tax and shipping.