ALONG THE MISSISSIPPI: MELT-IN-YOUR-MOUTH GOOD LOUISIANA PRALINES

A line of cars watched from the bank as the ferry slowly made its way across the Mississippi River at St. Francisville, La. My husband and I were on our way to Lafayette. It was unseasonably warm for an October afternoon, making most passengers abandon their cars to catch the river breeze.

From nowhere, appeared an old woman carrying a straw basket filled with homemade pralines for sale. Her steps were shuffled, and her skin weathered. I did not know anything about those pralines, but I admired her effort. For a dollar, two well-wrapped pralines rested in my hand. Maybe half the people had bought pralines from the old woman before she began her trip back down the dusty road.

The heat filled the air with the smell of caramel and pecans as everyone began to eat. Talk about melt-in-your-mouth good! As quickly as I could find my voice, I shouted for my husband to catch the old woman and to buy more pralines. He did, and so did everyone else! This time, as she turned back home, her basket was empty.

Those were the best pralines I have ever eaten, and the "inspiration" for the following recipe.

Melt-in-your-mouth good Louisiana pralines

1 cup brown sugar, packed

1 cup white sugar

1/4 teaspoon salt

3/4 cup evaporated milk

3 tablespoons milk

1/2 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

1 1/2 cups pecan pieces

1. Mix sugars, salt and evaporated milk in a heavy saucepan.

2. Slowly bring to a boil until the soft ball stage is reached on a candy thermometer, 234 degrees. Quickly remove mixture from heat and beat until creamy.

3. Stir in butter, vanilla and pecans.

4. Drop by spoonfuls on buttered wax paper and cool. Wrap in aluminum foil and store in tightly covered containers.

Yield: about 20 pralines

Angie Holtzhouser is author of Drop Dumplin's and Pan-Fried Memories ... Along the Mississippi. Her cookbook is available at local bookstores. In addition, it can be purchased through the mail at: Drop Dumplin's, P.O. Box 10, Lilbourn, Mo. 63862. The price is $19.95, including tax and shipping.