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November 13, 2008

On the edge of downtown Cape is one of the River City's more upscale eateries. After almost 20 years, Mollie's has earned its place as one of Cape Girardeau's best restaurants. While there isn't single license plate on any of the walls, there's no need to break out the tuxedo, either. ...

AARON EISENHAUER ~ aeisenhauer@semissourian.com<br>Martinis are a popular item at the bar at Mollie's Cafe .
AARON EISENHAUER ~ aeisenhauer@semissourian.com<br>Martinis are a popular item at the bar at Mollie's Cafe .

On the edge of downtown Cape is one of the River City's more upscale eateries. After almost 20 years, Mollie's has earned its place as one of Cape Girardeau's best restaurants.

While there isn't single license plate on any of the walls, there's no need to break out the tuxedo, either. Customers are free to dress, somewhat, informally as they enjoy all the tastes and pleasures of fine dining. Diners won't have to worry about talking over a loud jukebox or a four-drink karaoke contestant. Instead, soft music provides the background for conversation over drinks and a meal.

When John and Jerrianne Wyman started Mollie's in 1989, they wanted to provide quality food at great prices without pretense.

&quot;We started out on Good Hope [Street] in '89 as a bar,&quot; said John Wyman, who also happens to be the chef. &quot;I had tended bar throughout my time in college, and my wife and I wanted to start something that was fun.&quot;

&quot;We had, kind of, a retro feel going on ranging from the '30s to the '60s.&quot;

Eventually a kitchen was added at the location on Good Hope. John started cooking, Jerrianne got busier up front and things started to grow &mdash; so much so, that in 1993 they moved to their present location on Spanish.

Wyman describes Mollie's cuisine as &quot;continental.&quot; It features steak, seafood, chicken dishes, perhaps the occasional French-inspired entree. At the same time, their main purpose, Wyman said, &quot;is to satisfy anybody's tastes.&quot;

They use local meat, chicken, fish and produce.. The bread is always baked from scratch at Mollie's. All the soups and dressings are made from scratch as well.

&quot;I've got some great people in the kitchen who take a lot of care and interest in our food,&quot; Wyman said.

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A new menu is available with crab-stuffed trout, soft-shell crab and Mollie's famous stuffed mushroom caps. When asked what the mushrooms are stuffed with, Wyman teasingly responded, &quot;Can't tell ya.&quot;

Mollie's also has an extensive wine selection.

&quot;Most of the wine is domestic,&quot; Wyman said. &quot;California is especially well-represented. We also have Australian, French, Spanish and Italian wines.&quot;

During more hospitable weather, patrons often go outside on the patio for an after-dinner drink or smoke and enjoy the bonfire.

Over the years, Mollie's has served a veritable who's who &mdash; both George Bushes, Bill Clinton, Al Gore, Clarence Thomas and native son Rush Limbaugh.

&quot;The most important people we cook for, though, are the ones who come in week after week,&quot; Wyman said.

After a short hiatus from the business, John is back running the kitchen and Jerrianne hosts upfront at Mollie's. Dinner is served from 5 to 10 p.m. Monday to Thursday, and 5 to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday night. The lounge is open until 1:30 a.m. for late-night drinks. Walk-ins are welcome, but reservations are recommended on weekends.

Mollie's Cafe

339-1661

11 S. Spanish St.

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