Missouri's wine time

As the daylight wanes on a spring afternoon, the drive to River Ridge Winery in Commerce, Mo., is, in many spots along the way, breathtaking.

The sun's slanting rays paint their yellow-orange glow on the rolling green hills just outside Old Illmo on Route N toward Commerce.

Closer to the winery, those lush green hills turn into tall wooded bluffs full of the budding forest displaying its freshest green in late April. Just as it seems the forested bluffs will go on forever, a drop takes the road down to a flat, green flood plain and the town of Commerce, exposed to the rushing power of the Mississippi River.

A short drive through the town of 173 and it's back to the forested bluffs, where the winery sits, two buildings and a pavilion carved out of the woods.

"This is some of the prettiest land in the whole state," says winery general manger Keller Ford as he drives to the edge of a wooded bluffs standing tall over the river. Behind him that late-day spring sunshine smothers a hill of freshly budding vinifera grapes. River Ridge is one of only two wineries in the state with these cold-sensitive grapes, said owner Jerry Smith.

With this scenery it's no wonder River Ridge Winery is part of this weekend's Mississippi River Valley Scenic Drive, one of three different wineries on the route.

Friday and Saturday thousands are expected to follow the trail of the scenic drive as it winds through the hills, bluffs and flood plains of Southeast Missouri from Commerce in the south to Brazeau in the north. At both ends of that trail people can find some relaxation with a glass of Missouri-made wine -- either at River Ridge in Commerce, Hemman Winery in Brazeau or Tower Rock Winery in Altenburg.

Wine making is a trade that has found a place in Missouri. This year, the Missouri Grape and Wine Program estimates that 1.5 million people will visit the state's 40-plus wineries. Many of those will visit in the spring and summer.

For the three Southeast Missouri wineries, this weekend is expected to be a big draw as the spring season gets into full swing. They will all be featuring live music and be ready to serve up a nice glass of welcome to the visitors.

Two of them, Tower Rock and Hemman, will be celebrating their anniversaries this weekend. Both of those wineries saw the scenic drive with its influx of visitors as the perfect chance to open their doors.

"The drive really draws a lot of people to Brazeau," said Dorothy Hemman, who co-owns the Hemman Winery with her husband. "It's very small but it's a very active town."

This weekend, said Hemann, she's expecting somewhere between 800 and 1,000 people to visit the winery that sits in a 150 year-old building in the middle of the village.

The Hemman Winery makes wines in the German tradition with modified recipes that have been passed down through several generations of the family.

"We always like to say our hospitality comes from the German tradition, too," said Hemman.

Hemman's specialty is sweet and semi-sweet wines.

"That's something that a lot of wineries don't do much of," said Hemman. "So we get people coming from further away."

A relatively short drive toward the river leads to Tower Rock Winery in Altenburg, which is celebrating its fourth anniversary this weekend. The venture started out as owner Bob Breuer and wife Cheryl were collecting souvenir glasses from other Missouri wineries. As the collection and winery experience grew, the Breuers knew wine making was something they had to get into.

"We thought wineries were neat and that it would be fun to do," said Bob Breuer. So the couple starting planting vines in 1996 and by April 2001 they were ready for business.

At the Tower Rock Winery, patrons can sit on docks overlooking a 2 1/2 acre lake and feed the fish or sit on a screened-in patio overlooking the vineyards. Like River Ridge, Tower Rock specializes in dry to semi-sweet wines. One of its most popular is the aptly names Altenberger, a semi-sweet blend of three different grape varieties.

The winery is benefited by its proximity to a beautiful and historical natural landmark, Tower Rock, which is only three miles away.

"We were surprised how many people come to see the landmark and say 'Oh! There's a winery here,'" said Breuer.

River Ridge is the granddaddy of the three. It was opened in 1994 and has since seen a steady growth as it has earned a name for its wines, food and atmosphere.

"We're pretty optimistic people, but this has been more successful than we ever dreamed," said Smith. "We surround ourselves with good people and we want people to have a good time."

From a beginning of 2,500 gallons a year, the winery now pumps out 22,000 in a variety of styles from dry reds and whites to semi-dry to dessert wines. Smith said all the wines are "true Southeast Missouri wines." He said 60 percent of the grapes used at River Ridge are grown on the premises, while the other 40 percent come from other local growers.

Despite the winery's massive growth, the laid-back atmosphere is still there. Visitors will be greeted by the ultra-amiable Smith and maybe even by a friendly pooch named Lucky, Smith's "security system."

Patrons can sit inside the winery's dining room with its massive windows, enjoy the outside air under the pavilion or at tables in full sunlight or take a hike on trails back to the edge of the river bluffs and the grape fields.

While each of Southeast Missouri's wineries is different, those who visit this weekend will find one thing in common -- all of them are eager to please.

"It's about good wine, good food, good people and treating people nice," said Smith.

For more information on the scenic drive call the Cape Girardeau Convention and Visitors Bureau at (800) 777-0068.

msanders@semissourian.com

335-6611, extension 182