Van Buren's rivers, Ozark appeal draws visitors for summer getaways

The quaint hamlet of Van Buren lies deep in the Missouri Ozarks and for decades has been a major destination of weekend and holiday vacationers who like to float the sparkling Current River.

Many people begin their canoe, inner tube or kayak floats far north of Van Buren, then follow the twisting current south to this Carter County community of about 850.

"It's quite a scene here when the weather warms," says resident Regina Dazey. "Of course, we're a canoeing capital by the middle of summer."

Van Buren is the most prominent of the seven small communities that dot scenic Carter County along Missouri Highway 60. As the county seat, Van Buren straddles the Current River where the water widens. Floaters make it to land for the sandy beaches and to enjoy a game of volleyball. Other visitors come into town for the community's restaurants.

There are four places to rent canoes and tubes, five campgrounds for those who like to spend nights under starry skies, and several lodges, bed-and-breakfasts and motels for visitors who want to stay in Van Buren.

City clerk Lisa Rogers says visitors especially like the restaurants -- The Blue Heron, Michael's and Floatstream are especially popular.

"After a full day on the river or after driving around town to see all the sights, the restaurants here fill up pretty quick," Rogers said.

The Landing and Rosecliff Lodge offer rooms overlooking the Current River. The business also has the largest tube and canoe floating concession on the lower Current River, and is located downtown, right in the middle of the action.

"We get a lot of visitors from the Midwest, and we definitely get a lot of visitors from Cape Girardeau," says Andrew Bedell, a manager at The Landing and Rosecliff Lodge. "People come from Southern Illinois, and really from all over the country."

Bedell says tourism is highest from about mid-June through Labor Day.

"On a busy Saturday, the river probably has 3,000 to 4,000 floaters on it. They're in canoes and inner tubes," he said. "Besides the river, there are a lot of things to see within a 45-mile radius."

Van Buren is on the edge of a large section of Mark Twain National Forest, and popular Clearwater Lake is just a few miles to the northeast. Clearwater Lake has a large dam that allows fast-flowing water to gush down a man-made slough where anglers catch a variety of fish. There are five different parks around the lake that give easy access to swimming, boating and fishing.

The shimmering Current River has been designated a National Scenic River, and is the largest of the streams and rivers that comprise the Ozark National Scenic Riverways. The Current River begins at an underground spring in Montauk State Park to the northwest and flows southeast, bisecting Carter County.

Along the river are state parks and forests, gravel bars, large springs, camp sites, jagged mountains and spectacular scenery.

Just south of Van Buren is the granddaddy spring of them all -- Big Spring. Visitors to Big Spring can walk around the spring and watch as it bubbles out 276 million gallons of water daily. It is said to be the largest single-outlet spring in the United States -- and in the world.

"Spring water flows from the base of a dolomite bluff," says Dazey. "Big Spring is a premier attraction that I've photographed in all seasons."

Big Spring is in a region renowned as one of the most attractive destinations in the state for outdoor enthusiasts, who enjoy hiking, camping and picnicking here.

On your way to Big Spring, take a short bypass to Skyline Drive, (There are signs that point the way.) which winds high into the hills and affords majestic views of the countryside -- any time of year.

Although small in size, Van Buren bustles with activity. There are souvenir shops that sell river-related T-shirts and other items with local flavor. Each year on Memorial Day Weekend, visitors enjoy the Big Spring Arts, Crafts and Music Festival. Pioneer-era living is re-enacted, and country and bluegrass music wafts through the air.

From May through October, monthly street dances with live music are held at the pavilion behind the picturesque, native-rock courthouse. The pavilion also serves as a gathering place for political rallies and other special events.

An old-fashioned country fair is held the first weekend in October. Visitors enjoy arts and crafts, games of skill, exhibits, country music, clogging, square and round dancing, a beauty pageant and other contests. Also, Octoberfest is held downtown.

During the first weekend in December, the Big Spring Country Christmas, a festive event, enchants bystanders with a parade, Santa Claus, carolers and the seasonal lighting of the historic courthouse square.

Throughout the year, antiques shops, gift shops and quaint country stores are open around the courthouse square.

There is a small airport at Van Buren, a log cabin museum and a golf course.

In this beautiful region of the Ozarks, hunting is almost as popular as fishing. There are plentiful white-tail deer, skittish turkeys and other game large and small. Besides camping, visitors can enjoy backpacking and horseback riding.

Not too far from Van Buren, near Piedmont in Wayne County, is the Pine Hill Drive-in Theater. Built in the 1950s, the big screen lights up on weekends from spring through late summer.

Driving directions

Van Buren is about 120 miles from Cape Girardeau. Take Interstate 55 south to Sikeston, then follow Highway 60 west through Poplar Bluff to Van Buren. The more scenic route is to take Highway 74 to Dutchtown, then follow Highway 25 through Advance to Zalma. In Zalma, take Route PP west to Greenville, and then U.S. 67 north to the Piedmont exit, through Piedmont to Route HH, and then south on Highway 21, west on Highway 60 to Van Buren.