A HARTE APPETITE: WITH THIS COOKIE, APPEARANCES CAN BE DECEIVING

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Wednesday, March 4, 1998

For centuries Italians have been making a chocolate meringue cookie whimsically dubbed "Brutti Ma Buoni." The phrase means "ugly but good" and the cookie is so named because it is, if not downright unattractive, on the homely side, chunky and irregularly shaped. But it is a delicious combination of chocolate and hazelnuts that, despite its looks, is quite sophisticated in taste.

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