UN VOYAGE D'APRES-MIDI: AFTERNOON TRIP THROUGH AREA'S FRENCH HERITAGE

Members of the Compagnie Franche de la Marine from Fort de Chartres, Ill., marched through historic downtown Ste. Genevieve during Jour de Fete. The Marines will take part in a rendezvous at Fort de Chartres later this year.

Fort de Chartres was built in the 1750s and abandoned in 1771. The stone fort was the last of three forts erected by the French, the first was built in the 1720s.

Powder kegs rested inside what may be Illinois' oldest building -- the stone powder magazine -- inside Fort de Chartres.

Daniel Evans stood on the ferryboat watching the Mississippi River flow past as the ferry took him and three young travelers from Ste. Genevieve to Modoc, Ill.

Evans had taken the youngsters on a historic sightseeing trip, first visiting Ste. Genevieve and then heading to Fort de Chartres in Southern Illinois.

"I don't know," Evans said, as the ferry approached the Illinois bank. "Maybe we'll just ride back and forth across the river all day."

The ferry ride, $10 round trip, certainly highlights a day trip to the French territory to the north. What makes it better is the ferry ride cuts off about an hour of driving time and makes a visit to both French communities feasible for an afternoon.

From Southeast Missouri, try a drive up the old road, Highway 61, for a more scenic route. The old road also puts travelers right into the heart of Ste. Genevieve's historic district.

The city, Missouri's oldest community, was established between 1725 and 1750 soon after the French founded New Orleans.

Farmers and fur traders migrated to Ste. Genevieve and joined the French settlers.

The distinctive architecture of Ste. Genevieve attests its history.

Several examples of French Colonial vertical log homes can be seen. Also evident are brick, step-gabled homes and businesses brought to the community by German immigrants.

Preservation of these historic structures began as early as 1935.

The city got national attention during the 1993 flood as the Mississippi flowed through Ste. Genevieve's historic downtown.

Markers downtown show the river's crest at different spots, emphasizing the devastation. A cursory glance through the historic district also shows a number of buildings still suffering from the flood's ravages.

Restoration work continues, and six of the historic homes were open for tours during the Jour de Fete over the weekend.

The annual event brings thousands of people to the streets of Ste. Genevieve, but the town is host to visitors throughout the year.

When the streets are cleared of festival vendors, visitors will find an assortment of antique shops and crafts for sale.

In October, a fall harvest festival will be held. The annual country Christmas walk and a French Christmas at the Felix Valle State Historic Site House take place in December.

Back on the Mississippi River ferry, Daniel Evans and his three young travelers stood next to Bob Bingel of Illinois. Bingel, like Evans, was headed toward Fort de Chartres.

Bingel, however, wasn't a tourist. He lives nearby year-round and is a re-enactor at the fort.

Fort de Chartres, a national historic landmark, was established in 1720 by the French on a swampy bank of the Mississippi River. The original fort was destroyed by a flood seven years later and was rebuilt of stone at its present site.

The massive stone walls were 15-feet high and 3 feet thick and enclosed four acres.

The fort never fired a shot to protect French interests.

The end of the French occupation of Illinois and Fort de Chartres began with the signing of the Treaty of Paris in 1763.

On Oct. 10, 1765, 100 men of England's 42nd Royal Highlanders or "Black Watch" regiment marched through the gates of the fort. The French commandant and the remainder of the French garrison left the fort the next day. Most journeyed to what was then the new village of St. Louis. Some headed for Ste. Genevieve.

With the departure of the French from Illinois to Missouri came the end of Fort de Chartres. It was abandoned by the British in 1722."

The fort's powder magazine was the only original structure standing when the state of Illinois purchased the site in 1913. Today, the entire front portion of the fort's 15-foot wall has been reconstructed. The visitor's center contains artifacts from the fort area.

A frame of buildings that were likely barracks has also been constructed. Visitors can view the original stone foundation. At the back of the fort, a kitchen garden is growing complete with eggplants, radishes, broccoli, leeks and watermelon.

Each November a huge rendezvous is held at the fort. Thousands of re-enactors, including Bingel, are on hand to relive the 1700s.

"It's great fun," Bingel said, "and it's a great way to learn about history."