River Ridge Winery changes hands

Frequent guests of River Ridge Winery in Scott City will see new faces behind the tasting table and in the restaurant next time they come for a visit.

After decades of successful ownership, founders Jerry and Joannie Smith have sold the winery and begun the task of showing longtime customers and first-time vintners Rob and Denise Bullock the ins and outs of winemaking.

Ownership of the winery was transferred Sunday. The Bullocks now own the winery and restaurant on 10 acres, plus the winery's resident dog, Michelle, and cat, Gus.

"They were part of the contract," Jerry Smith said.

The Bullocks discovered River Ridge as students at Southeast Missouri State University in the 1990s, not long after the winery had opened.

"I had my first taste of wine in that tasting room," Rob Bullock said.

"We celebrated our first anniversary here," Denise Bullock said.

Eventually, the Bullocks moved away from Southeast Missouri. Rob spent 20 years working in insurance, while Denise stayed at home to raise their two children, Olivia and Connor.

But whenever they came back to the area, whether for business or for alumni events, they always would visit River Ridge.

"We saw them as students. We saw them get married and raise children," Joannie Smith said. "So it's been an ongoing development, an ongoing friendship," Joannie Smith said.

History

Jerry Smith's dream was not always to be a vintner, though the aspiration came to him early.

"I got my degree in math and physics," Jerry Smith said. "I wanted to be an astronaut."

He served in the Navy, flying fighter jets. After serving in Vietnam, he was sent to Europe, where his interest in wines was piqued.

"I drank my way across Europe twice," Jerry Smith said. "That's when I decided I was going to have a winery."

After his time in the military, Smith came to Cape Girardeau as an air-traffic controller. When in 1980 he found an 80-acre lot in Scott City with southward-facing slopes, he bought it with the purpose of growing grapes. His first seeds were planted in 1981.

It took time for the grapes to grow, and it took longer for Jerry Smith to decide to open the winery.

"I had to tell him to stop talking about it and just do it," Joannie Smith said.

On Sept. 17, 1994, River Ridge Winery opened as a two-person operation in a small, century-old house where about 500 gallons of wine were made every year. Over the years, a wine production building was added. The Fermentation Room Cafe was opened. Wine production increased to 3,000 to 4,000 gallons each year. The Smiths ran the winery, with increased staff as needed, along with Joannie Smith's seasonally based business, the Yule Log Cabin.

Time for change

While on vacation in Gulf Shores, Alabama, two years ago, the Smiths realized they needed an exit plan to ensure the winery they built would continue.

"I still love almost every aspect of this business," Jerry Smith said. "If I didn't, I couldn't have continued at this pace. It's been 22 to 23 years of -- with the exception of family emergencies -- working seven days a week."

Their love of winemaking and the relationships they cultivated made the work worth it, they said. But they knew they couldn't continue forever.

Though they didn't necessarily plan to sell right away, Jerry Smith determined he would have a clear path out before his 70th birthday in 2016.

Many people expressed interest in owning River Ridge, Jerry Smith said. But when Rob Bullock stopped by while in town on business, Jerry informed him of his interest in selling, and things moved quickly from there. A week later, they were meeting to discuss the future and financing.

When the Smiths decided to turn their business over to the Bullocks, they were certain it would be in good hands, and the transition process would be an enjoyable.

"We have history together, and we have no qualms about working together," Joannie Smith said.

Looking ahead

The Bullock family is unpacking their new home in Scott City and have eased their way into the winery. The Smiths will continue to work in River Ridge for at least a year, as part of the contract, teaching the Bullocks the winemaking processes and visiting with guests.

But when the year is over, the Smiths still will have a presence. They still own their home on the bluff behind the winery, 150 acres, including the vineyard, which the Bullocks are leasing. Joannie Smith will continue to run the Yule Log Cabin.

"We're not going anywhere," Jerry Smith said.

"I might give Jerry a part-time job," Joannie Smith said.

The Bullocks look forward to continuing the business the Smiths built with little changes in the near future. Rob Bullock said when they heard the Smiths were selling the winery, they worried River Ridge would no longer feel like home to them. By taking over the business, he said, they are ensuring it will.

bbrown@semissourian.com

(573) 388-3630

Pertinent address:

850 Co Rd 321, Scott City, MO